Breguet Refreshes its Marine Collection with the New 5517 and 5527 References

Rooted in Breguet’s longstanding relationship with maritime exploration, the Marine collection brings the Maison’s history of precision instruments into a contemporary setting. For its latest iterations, the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 receive refined dials, updated date positioning and details that deepen their nautical character. GMT India takes a closer look at the new references. 

The Origins of the Marine Collection

The story begins in the late 18th century, when Abraham-Louis Breguet designed timepieces as scientific instruments, placing precision, reliability and legibility at their core. This expertise earned him a significant appointment in 1815, when Louis XVIII named him Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy, a year after his admission to the Bureau des Longitudes.

Breguet’s marine chronometers subsequently accompanied navigators and explorers on some of the era’s most ambitious expeditions. No. 3502 travelled with Louis Le Goarant de Tromelin during his Pacific explorations, while No. 3588 accompanied Hyacinthe de Bougainville on his circumnavigation of the globe between 1824 and 1826. In 1840, a Breguet instrument also journeyed to Antarctica with Jules Dumont d’Urville. These historic voyages established a natural connection between Breguet and the world of maritime exploration, a legacy that continues through the contemporary Marine collection.

Today, that spirit of adventure is expressed through watches that combine robustness and performance with distinctly Breguet design codes.

Marine 5517

The most pared-back expression of the collection, the Marine 5517 takes a three-hand approach, allowing its detailing to take centre stage. In the latest versions, the date has been repositioned to 6 o’clock, creating a more balanced and symmetrical dial.

At the heart of the design is the Quai de l’Horloge hand-guilloché pattern, introduced to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. Named after the historic address on Paris’ Île de la Cité where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop, and where his marine chronometers were notably produced, the motif draws from the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis while evoking the movement of waves.

The intricate pattern is executed on a gold base, which is treated to create different tones before a layer of lacquer adds depth and intensity. The white gold version features an ice blue dial, the pink gold model is rendered in black, while the titanium iteration takes on a subtle blue hue. At 12 o’clock, a gold Breguet appliqué provides a refined focal point.

Elsewhere, the Marine 5517 stays firmly within Breguet territory. Breguet numerals and the Maison’s signature “apple” hands echo the codes of its historic marine chronometers, while more discreet details reinforce the nautical theme. The tip of the seconds hand forms a “B”, referencing the “Bravo” maritime flag, while the crown guard is shaped to suggest the movement of waves.

The maritime references continue when turning the watch over. The gold oscillating weight is inspired by the lines of a ship’s rudder and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Multiple finishing techniques bring the component to life, extending the nautical vocabulary from the dial into the movement.

The Marine 5517 is offered with either a rubber strap decorated with the same Quai de l’Horloge motif or a matching metal bracelet.

Marine Chronographe 5527

Taking a sportier direction, the Marine Chronographe 5527 adds a flyback chronograph to the collection. A large central hand tracks the chronograph seconds, while two counters positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock display the chronograph minutes and small seconds. The symmetrical arrangement maintains legibility while giving the dial a more dynamic character.

As with the 5517, the dial is crafted from gold and finished with the Quai de l’Horloge hand-guilloché pattern. Depending on the version, the motif appears in shades of blue or grey, creating contrast against the surrounding elements.

The latest 5527 models also move the date to 6 o’clock, reinforcing the dial’s symmetry, while a gold Breguet appliqué sits at 12 o’clock. The collection’s maritime codes are again woven into the details: the central chronograph hand incorporates the “B” of the “Bravo” maritime flag, the crown echoes the movement of waves and the gold oscillating weight takes inspiration from a rudder.

Like the 5517, the Marine Chronographe 5527 can be paired with a rubber strap bearing the Quai de l'Horloge pattern or a metal bracelet matched to the case.

With the latest Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527, Breguet continues to translate its historic relationship with navigation into a distinctly modern language – one where the precision of a marine instrument meets the craftsmanship and visual identity of contemporary haute horlogerie.

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