Chopard at Watches and Wonders: L.U.C at 30, Time Distilled to Its Purest Form

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Chopard’s latest novelties span its most recognisable pillars, from the playful charm of Happy Diamonds to the sporty refinement of the Alpine Eagle. Yet, it is within the L.U.C collection that the Maison’s watchmaking depth truly comes to the fore. Marking 30 years of the Fleurier manufacture, these releases offer a considered exploration of craft, complication, and technical finesse, reaffirming Chopard’s enduring commitment to haute horlogerie.

Here are five new L.U.C. models that redefine high watchmaking by blending craft with precision. The Maison is also presenting new creations within the Alpine Eagle, Mille Miglia, L’Heure du Diamant, Happy Sport, and Precious Lace collections.

 L.U.C 1860 

A direct continuation of one of the manufacture’s most defining references, the L.U.C 1860 returns in a 36.5 mm Lucent Steel™ case, staying true to the compact elegance of the original. Its “Areuse Blue” dial is drawn from the Cerulean hues of the river that runs through Val-de-Travers, the very place that serves as the heart of the Maison’s high watchmaking. 

The timepiece introduces a quiet dynamism, changing character with the light. Crafted in solid 18-carat white gold, the dial is hand-guilloché on a vintage lathe (a watchmaking tool), where a sunburst motif is layered with concentric rings to create depth. Dauphine hands, polished chevron markers, and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock complete a composition that remains free of a date, preserving its visual clarity.

‍L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

Further, Chopard shifts into a more expressive register with a complication that blends mechanical ingenuity with métiers d’art for dial crafts. Issued as two eight-piece limited editions, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 pairs a jumping-hour display with the rare artistry of straw marquetry, a union that captivates with its graphic tension. 

Each dial is composed of hand-split strands of rye straw, meticulously arranged into a honeycomb motif — a subtle homage to founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard’s emblematic bee. 

One arrives in 18-carat ethical rose gold with a deep blue dial, while the other, in ethical yellow gold, showcases straw in its most natural, unaltered hue. Powering the watch is the L.U.C Calibre 98.06-L; four stacked barrels deliver an exceptional 192-hour power reserve, while maintaining consistent energy flow to the escapement — crucial for the instantaneous hour jump. 

Despite this complexity, the movement remains remarkably slim at 4.85 mm and is housed within a 40 mm case inspired by historic hunter-style pocket watches.

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L.U.C Strike One Titanium

With the Strike One Titanium, Chopard approaches acoustic horology with a clarity that makes the timepiece very functional and versatile. Housed in a 40 mm case crafted entirely from Grade 5 titanium, the L.U.C Strike One Titanium introduces a chiming complication in its most distilled form: a chime-in-passing that marks the hours with a single, clear note. 

At just under 10 mm thick, it maintains an elegant profile, while a discreet pusher integrated into the crown allows the wearer to activate or silence the chime without disrupting the watch’s clean lines. The dial continues the Maison’s narrative language, pairing an 18-carat ethical gold base with a hand-guilloché honeycomb motif. 

Its warm salmon hue plays against rhodium-plated markers and Dauphine hands, while thoughtful apertures introduce both function and intrigue. Inside, the L.U.C Calibre 96.32-L powers the movement.

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L.U.C Time Traveler One  

Unveiled as part of the manufacture’s 30th anniversary, this limited edition of 250 pieces reinterprets Chopard’s worldtimer with a distinct edge. The khaki-toned dial departs from the Maison’s more classical palette, drawing on cues of exploration and military heritage. 

Concentric discs display 24 global time zones with intuitive clarity, framed by beige accents, luminescent detailing, and a vertical satin-brushed texture that enhances legibility. A lacquered yellow seconds hand cuts through the composition, adding a subtle but deliberate contrast, while dual crowns at 2 and 4 o’clock allow for precise adjustment of local time and the city disc.

Operating at 4 Hz and offering a 60-hour power reserve, it ensures reliable performance for frequent travellers, while remaining visible through a tinted sapphire caseback.  

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L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue 

This ultra-thin L.U.C XPS embraces an assertive aesthetic, with its sleek profile and a dial anchored in Art Deco and Bauhaus principles. Concentric rings define the hours and minutes, while radial markers introduce a disciplined geometry that enhances legibility. The “Prussian Blue” tone appears rich and saturated, shifting between shadow and light across a sunburst satin finish. A small seconds display at 6 o’clock anchors the composition, maintaining the symmetry that defines the XPS line.

Powering the watch is the L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L, an ultra-thin automatic movement that continues the lineage of the manufacture’s original 1996 calibre.