Playing with Time, the Chanel Way

If there is one watch that embodies Chanel’s knack for turning contradiction into an aesthetic language, it is the J12. Named after the J12 racing sailboat, the timepiece carries a legacy rooted in sports, beneath it playful ceramic exterior.

As Gabrielle Chanel once put it, “Black has everything. White too. They have an absolute beauty. It’s the perfect harmony.” For years, the J12 has played out this dialogue in black and white. But, with the latest novelties, CHANEL Watch Creation Studio is introducing a new move with the shade blue.

When Black Turns Blue

‍

In 2026, two new J12 models bring an enigmatic matte blue ceramic to the collection. It is not quite navy, nor does it attempt to replace the J12's signature black. Instead, it occupies the space between the two: a shade that seems to change character with every turn of the wrist.

The choice is far from arbitrary. Blue has been part of Gabrielle Chanel’s visual vocabulary since 1914, when it appeared in her first jersey creations in Deauville. She returned to the colour throughout her career, working it into wool, tweed and eveningwear, with a particular fondness for its darker, more mysterious tones. On the J12, that chromatic history takes on a distinct horological expression.

‍

Then comes the high-jewellery interpretation: the J12 Diamonds Tourbillon Caliber 5, where sporty architecture meets haute horlogerie. Encased in 18K white gold and set with 34 baguette-cut diamonds, this edition is limited to just 12 pieces, turning the familiar J12 into an icy, almost sculptural expression.

‍Wordplay on the Wrist

The PREMIÈRE takes a playful turn for the Coco Game collection. This limited-edition creation plays with something even more immediate: the brand’s name itself. Six charms swing from its signature chain bracelet, each carrying a letter that comes together to spell C-H-A-N-E-L. Crafted in black-coated steel, the letters move with the rhythm of the wrist, turning the brand name into a kinetic little game.

‍

‍CODE COCO plays a different game

The Code Coco Game has always had a rebellious streak, and this limited-edition iteration gives it a distinctly playful edge. Encased in black-coated steel, the watch cuts a striking graphic silhouette, blurring the line between timepiece and bracelet. Its deliberately monochromatic palette gives the design a sleek, almost architectural character.

‍

The surprise comes at the wrist. A white calfskin strap, finished with a satin effect and leather lining, brings their iconic handbag codes into the watch. One of the black-lacquered dials is punctuated by a princess-cut diamond, adding just enough sparkle without disturbing its sharp aesthetic.

‍Mademoiselle Deals The Cards

The Boy·friend Coco Game turns its dial into a miniature playing card, bringing the brand's new playful graphic universe directly onto the wrist. At its centre is a printed illustration of Mademoiselle Chanel herself, rendered like the portrait on a traditional playing card. The unexpected graphic treatment gives the watch a collectible, almost pop-art character.

‍

Even the crown gets a playful detail — a black spinel cabochon that glints like a tiny game piece. The monochrome drama continues with white satin-effect calfskin strap, edged in black patent leather. On the wrist, the watch emerges as theatre of contrasts, but the real draw remains Mademoiselle herself, who stands frozen mid-game.

‍Première Galon Plays Dress-Up

The Première Galon turns one of the most recognisable sartorial signatures — the braid trim — into a watch. Borrowed from Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic suits, where braid traced contours, framed pockets and cuffs, the motif now takes shape as a rigid, twisted bangle, giving the timepiece a sculptural new way of being worn.

Across the J12, Première, Code Coco and Boy·friend, watchmaking becomes less about technical feats and more about exercising with style. Ceramic turns enigmatic blue, a bracelet borrows from couture, a dial becomes a playing card and the name 'Chanel' becomes a charm in dynamic motion.