The Most Exciting Novelties from Geneva Watch Days 2026

The seventh edition of Geneva Watch Days, taking place from September 2 to 6, has been its most ambitious edition to date. With 71 participating brands and a dynamic programme expanding beyond just product launches, the summer watch fair has been one of the most anticipated events on every watch enthusiast’s calendar. GMT India took a close look at the novelties and picked out the most exciting new releases that must be on every watch lover’s radar. 

Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta has released a second iteration of one of his favourite complications: the Minute Repeater. Following the sleek black-tie beauty of the Black Onyx edition released in 2025, the new Geneva Minute Repeater features a natural golden obsidian dial. The Gerald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian turns time into an experience: a rare golden obsidian dial, sculpted 3N yellow gold and an in-house GG-002 minute repeater come together in a watch where mechanical precision becomes music. Each gong is cut, tuned and adjusted by hand, transforming every passing moment into a crystalline chime. 

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt 

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt revives a rare dial-making technique in which the Roman numerals, signature and individual numbering are revealed from the solid gold base rather than applied to the surface. Through a meticulous process of masking, electroplating and finishing, the dial achieves its rich black tone while preserving the exposed gold details, creating the illusion that the markings are embedded within the dial. Two hand-executed guilloché patterns, a straight-line motif across the centre and a circular filet sauté finish around the chapter ring enhance its depth and play of light. Paired with a warm 5N rose gold case, the result is a refined interplay of texture, contrast and craftsmanship.

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is powered by the in-house, manual-winding Calibre DR002, with all 143 components visible through the sapphire caseback. Entirely manufactured in-house, the movement showcases meticulous hand-finishing, including sharp inner angles, extensive bevelling, Côtes de Genève, perlage and étirage des flancs. Requiring several days of craftsmanship to complete, the calibre exemplifies Daniel Roth’s commitment to traditional haute horlogerie, combining exceptional finishing with understated mechanical elegance.

MB&F M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

The M.A.D.3 marks the latest chapter in the M.A.D.Editions series, bringing legendary independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese’s pioneering wandering hours complication to a new generation of enthusiasts. Inspired by his 1989 Baladin watch, the M.A.D.3 pays tribute to Calabrese’s unconventional approach to horology and his decades-long commitment to creative independence. A co-founder of the AHCI and the mind behind innovations such as Corum’s Golden Bridge movement, Calabrese has spent over 50 years challenging traditional watchmaking, earning more than 40 patents.

At the heart of the M.A.D.3 is Calabrese’s signature wandering hours display, which replaces the abrupt jump of a conventional hour display with a smooth, progressive movement across the dial, creating a fluid and intuitive way of reading time. Rather than recreating the Baladin, M.A.D.Editions has re-engineered the complication for modern production. Built on a Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G111 calibre, the movement has been optimised for improved energy efficiency, reliability and a 55-hour power reserve while preserving the poetic motion of the original.

The 40mm stainless-steel watch features floating lugs, domed sapphire crystals, a layered display and luminous detailing. On the caseback, an engraved quote by Calabrese appears as the rotor spins, reflecting the independent spirit that has defined his remarkable career.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time X Vianney Halter

Bvlgari has reimagined the Octo Finissimo through an unprecedented collaboration with legendary independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, marking the first time the collection has featured a movement co-developed from the ground up. Blending Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s architectural Octo design with Halter’s signature retro-futuristic aesthetic inspired by Jules Verne, the timepiece presents an entirely new interpretation of the ultra-thin icon. Housed in a 40.5mm case measuring just 9.7mm in thickness, it features four opaline rhodium-plated subdials displaying the hours, minutes, GMT, date and day/night indicator. Powering the watch is the newly developed in-house automatic Calibre BVF 200, an ultra-thin 5.49mm movement with a platinum micro-rotor engraved with Halter’s signature and a 60-hour power reserve. The collaborative creation is offered in two highly exclusive editions: a sandblasted titanium version limited to 30 pieces and a sandblasted and vertically brushed 18ct rose gold model, paired with a brown alligator strap, limited to just 15 pieces worldwide.

De Bethune DB25 Digitale

De Bethune’s DB25 Digitale showcases the brand’s signature blend of contemporary design and traditional craftsmanship through a dial inspired by the tranquillity of a moonlit night. Comprising 82 meticulously crafted elements, the dial evokes the reflections of a calm river beneath a starlit sky. Classical barleycorn guilloché pays homage to traditional watchmaking, while random guilloché on blued titanium introduces a distinctly modern aesthetic. The interplay of textures, finishes and light creates a serene, poetic composition that reflects De Bethune’s unique approach to haute horlogerie. 

Perrelet Weekend Stone Dials

Perrelet expands its Weekend collection ith four new natural stone dial editions, introducing turquoise, lapis lazuli, black onyx and tiger’s eye following the success of its aventurine and malachite models. Each gemstone dial lends the minimalist timepiece a distinctive character while retaining excellent legibility with polished baton indexes, Dauphine hands and a discreet date display. The watches are housed in a 39mm stainless-steel case with an integrated bracelet, an additional quick-release calf leather strap and a transparent caseback showcasing the automatic Perrelet P-321 movement. Beating at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve, the new models blend Swiss precision with timeless elegance and everyday versatility.

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