As Geneva Watch Days 2023 begins today, the world of timepieces is getting ready to meet a host of horological wonders. The jamboree has started with Bvlgari unveiling six new creations on the shores of Lake Geneva. The brand has turned to the extraordinary duality of nature as its guiding theme, wherein materials, colours, shapes, and savoir-faire are reinvented.
For Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari has presented the Octo Finissimo, along with two new models of the Serpenti Misteriosi, which highlights the marvellous Piccolissimo BVL 100 round miniature mechanical movement. For the third act of its novelties, the brand has incorporated antique coins into the Monete Catene secret watches. The two coins in the Monete Catene Dual Time wristwatch are emblematic of the reign of the legendary royal couple, Emperor Septimus Severus and his empress, Julia Domna. Featured on the other Monete Catene watch is a denarius, a silver coin depicting a formidable Roman emperor. With their ample volume, these Monete Catene watches, crafted with gold and diamonds, demonstrate sophistication and aesthetic mastery, reminiscent of Ancient Rome and Greece.
GMT India examines the novelties, which are set to woo watch aficionados at Geneva Watch Days.
Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar
Revisiting the rulebook with the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic (Ref. 103779) and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 103778), Bvlgari offers a heady mix of carbon and gold. The Octo Finissimo has now been reinvented in high-tech anthracite carbon. Anthracite-coloured carbon has a matte finish and makes the timepiece feel like a feather on the wrist. The crown, crafted from gold, ensures a luxurious contrast against this high-tech backdrop.
The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar was awarded the prestigious Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2021; it set the Maison’s seventh record for slimness. The latest version is equipped with Bvlgari’s calibre BVL 305, redesigned from the ground up, providing the watch with an incredible profile of only 2.75 mm. In this new carbon version, the ultra-thin classic perpetual calendar complication requires no adjustment before 2100. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic (Ref. 103779) is run by the ultra-thin Caliber BVL 138.
The Estetica della Meccanica or the ‘aesthetic of mechanics’, cultivated by Bvlgari, can also be seen on the transparent caseback of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold, held in place by eight precious metal screws; it is like micro-sunbursts on the carbon surface. It also reveals vibrant contrasts, with the Côte de Genève-decorated rose gold bridges and the oscillating weight forged from rose gold-plated platinum.
Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch
Bvlgari has now presented the Serpenti Misteriosi in two new avatars. The first version sparkles in white gold and is paved with diamonds; the second one charms in rose gold with scales of black lacquer and dainty diamonds. The serpent’s head is adorned with emerald eyes and conceals a pavé-set dial. Bvlgari’s mastery of high jewellery and fine watchmaking shines bright in the latest Serpenti iterations. The heart of these watches beats to the rhythms of Calibre BVL 100, aptly called the Piccolissimo movement, meaning ‘very, very small’ in Italian. This extraordinary movement is wound by a crown located under the serpent’s head.
A total of 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (32.91 carats) grace the Serpenti Misteriosi in white gold. On the other hand, the Serpenti Misteriosi in rose gold combines the chromatic depth of black lacquer with the ethereal glow of navette-cut diamonds, creating fascinating patterns.
Monete Catene High Jewellery Secret Watches
The new Monete Catene secret watches draw inspiration from the innovative concept of Gemme Nummarie, introduced by Nicola Bulgari in the mid 60s. The precious antique coins that elevate the watch cases are as exquisite as they are sculptural. These high jewellery timepieces flow around the wrist with delicate chain bracelets, reminiscent of the curb chains of the 40s, also known as gourmettes. The bracelets are crafted from gold and set with diamonds.
Bulgari has sourced rare coins of historical relevance to cover the Monete Catene secret watches. The two coins of the Monete Catene Dual Time cuff represent the reign of Septimius Severus, emperor from 193 to 211 AD, and his empress, Julia Domna, who was venerated as a goddess. The Monete Catene wristwatch features a denarius or a silver coin, depicting Emperor Caracalla, who ruled from 198 to 217 AD. Minted during his reign, the coin represents this emperor’s strategic genius.
The Monete Catene timepieces are shaped with gold and diamonds; these skilfully orchestrated lines form the casing for the coins. The case of the Monete Catene wristwatch is designed with eight facets, like the Octo Monete watches of the time. This geometrical construction is reminiscent of the ceiling of the Maxentius Basilica in Rome.
The Monete Catene Dual Time cuff, equally refined in its design, draws inspiration from a rectangular watch designed for the Roman Maison in the 1970s. The dial has hands in two distinct colours to display time in different time zones. The watch uses a two-tone combination, characteristic of the period, encircling the coins. The secret watch is adorned with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, and a delicate snow setting. Each hidden dial is revealed by turning the key on the side of the case, set with two emerald cabochons, a Bvlgari hallmark. The two secret watches are powered by the Piccolissimo BVL 100 movement, created by the Bvlgari Manufacture.