Daniel Roth’s Tourbillon Souscription Marks the Brand’s First Public Exhibition at LVMH Watch Week.

The tourbillon regulator is the star of this Daniel Roth creation; it makes one revolution every minute, allowing it to function as a second indicator
Daniel Roth’s Tourbillon Souscription Marks the Brand’s First Public Exhibition at LVMH Watch Week.
January 31, 2024
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Daniel Roth’s Tourbillon Souscription Marks the Brand’s First Public Exhibition at LVMH Watch Week.

Daniel Roth is a renowned watchmaker, known for his exceptional skill and creativity in the world of haute horlogerie. In 1988, Roth established his own brand, Daniel Roth S.A., in Le Sentier, Switzerland. His watches quickly gained recognition for their distinctive style, characterised by a unique elliptical case shape, known as the "double ellipse". This shape became a hallmark of the Daniel Roth brand.

Roth's timepieces are also known for blending traditional watchmaking techniques with innovative design, often featuring complex movements and a high level of craftsmanship. At the ongoing LVMH Watch Week, the luxury timepiece brand, which is making its debut at the prestigious event, has introduced the Tourbillon Souscription, limited to only 20 pieces and showcasing the signature double-ellipse case. These exquisite pieces will be available via subscription.

The term, "double-ellipse case watch", typically refers to a wristwatch whose case shape is characterised by a unique oval-like design. It is not as common as the traditional circular, square or rectangular watch case, and thus, it adds a distinctive aesthetic element to a watch. One of his (Daniel Roth’s) signature designs, this unique shape is essentially a blend of a circle and a square. The double-ellipse shape not only gives a watch an exclusive and sophisticated look, but also ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist.

The 38.6 mm, 18 ct yellow gold watch gets downward angular, solid lugs. The timepiece also features Clous de Paris finishes on the plate around the dial, which is produced in Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, and not in his Comblémine dial manufacture. Although the dial retains the same markings as the original model, the typography has been slightly modernised to lend it contemporary aesthetics. Take the positioning of the time subdial at 12 o’clock and that of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The subdial gets dark blue Roman hour markers, and dark blue, arrow-tipped hour and minute hands.

The tourbillon regulator, which makes one revolution every minute, allowing it to function as a second indicator, is the star of this Daniel Roth creation. The tourbillon cage comes with a three-armed seconds hand, each arm having a different length and each pointing at a different sector of the second’s scale. The watch features a redesigned crown at 3 o’clock with Daniel Roth’s logo for smooth winding of the watch.

Powering the watch is the manual winding Calibre DR001, delivering a power reserve of 80 hours.Each of the first 20 pieces in yellow gold will come with a closed caseback which will hide the movement. The solid back bears the individual number of each watch, which is a tribute to early Daniel Roth timepieces that featured similarly engraved solid backs. The watch is finished on a calf leather strap.

Image Credits: Daniel Roth
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