At the ongoing Dubai Watch Week 2023, ORIS has introduced the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser, an avant-garde timepiece that pushes the boundaries of innovation with its state-of-the-art laser-treated dial. Adding to the allure, ORIS's latest offerings also include the Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch. This exquisite timepiece is a warm and inviting reinterpretation of the iconic retro diver's watch, incorporating a tobacco-hued aesthetic.
GMT India takes a closer look at these remarkable novelties
ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser showcases a titanium dial, crafted with a groundbreaking lasering technique. This innovative process creates a mesmerising shimmer with colours ranging from blue to green to violet, reminiscent of iridescent beetles. The dial's unique surface manipulation generates a captivating rainbow effect, without traditional colour pigments, that varies based on the viewing angle.
A Colourful Illusion
Laser technology has indeed played a crucial role in crafting every detail on the dial. The logo, indices, minutes track, and dial text are intricately fashioned using a laser process that ensures a three-dimensional appearance. The resulting visual under a loupe is nothing short of spectacular. This pioneering dial colouration technique represents a watchmaking first, developed through collaboration with a research lab, affiliated with ETH Zürich.
Richard 'Ipy' Siegrist led the development of the Laser's distinctive dial, providing insights into its functionality and what it signifies for ORIS watchmaking. Explaining the dial design, he says, “We’re looking at a phenomenon called optical interference. You can see a dial that has beautiful colours ranging from blue to green to violet. But there is not a single pigment of colour on it. Everything is achieved via a laser treatment that changes the watch’s titanium dial in such a way that the light waves that get reflected back to your eyes only contain a certain spectrum of the visible light, and therefore, give you an impression of colour.”
Indeed, the precise process, inspired by biomimicry and reminiscent of optical effects seen in nature, reflects the brand’s commitment to innovation. “Normal light contains all colours of the visible spectrum (and more that are not visible). If a certain range – the longer red waves, for example – gets destroyed, only the medium green and shorter blue waves get reflected. It’s colour creation by addition,” adds Siegrist. “We’ve also added a second layer that splits the visible light into its components and creates a shimmering rainbow effect. How you see this depends on your viewing angle.”
Seeking Technological Beauty
The journey to achieving perfection lasted for over two years, with the primary focus on addressing challenges related to scaling up production. Rigorous testing and development of a specialised dial holder were necessary due to tight tolerances and variations in the dial's thickness. The resulting dial, featuring a captivating rainbow effect, distinguishes itself from a lenticular design. Instead, it represents a unique manipulation of surface properties, showcasing a visually stunning and unparalleled experience.
Moving beyond the dial, the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser maintains the distinctive design of its forward-looking predecessor, introduced in 2022. The 39 mm multi-piece titanium case, bezel, and crown, along with the three-link titanium bracelet, embody the challenging form of this timepiece. Powering the watch is the mechanical ORIS Calibre 400, a game-changing five-day automatic movement, known for surpassing chronometer accuracy and offering superior anti-magnetism and reliability. The newly launched watch has a power reserve of 120 hours and water resistance of up to 120 metres. Accompanied by a 10-year warranty and recommended service intervals, this watch sets itself apart from its predecessors by omitting the date function, thereby allowing the dial to convey its extraordinary narrative.
ORIS Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia
One of ORIS’s beloved designs makes a comeback, featuring a mysterious and unexpected twist. Introducing the Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia — a cosy, tobacco-hued reinterpretation of the retro diver's watch in bronze. Unlike previous Cotton Candy editions that blended bronze with vibrant pastels, this version surprises us with a black dial and a matching rubber strap option.
Cotton Candy Goes Sepia
The vintage hue continues into the dial detailing, where golden-edged hands and hour markers are filled with off-white lume that glows in green. In bronze are the 38 mm case, the unidirectional rotating bezel, and the screw-in crown. The lumed lollipop seconds hand pays tribute to the classic diver’s watch form and even the ORIS logo is in a rusty bronze colour. As with previous bronze iterations of the Divers Sixty-Five, the material will patinate naturally over time as it oxidises, lending each watch a unique finish that develops according to the owner’s experience. The solid caseback is crafted from stainless steel and engraved with the ORIS crest. Powered by a Swiss-Made mechanical movement (ORIS 733), the watch provides time and date functions. The look is mature, confident, and joyfully ageless.
It functions with centre hands for hours, minutes, and seconds, along with a fine timing device and stop-second, and a power reserve of 38 hours. The strap/bracelet options also include a multi-piece bronze metal bracelet with a folding clasp.