How Breitling’s Most Elegant Dive Watch Finds New Rhythm in Hawaii
If you trace the lineage of the modern chronograph — not just as a complication but as a cultural artefact — you arrive, unavoidably, at Breitling. The Swiss marque, founded by Léon Breitling in 1884, redefined timekeeping in more ways than one. In 1915, Breitling introduced one of the first wrist-worn chronographs with an independent pusher at 2 o’clock. By 1934, it had revolutionised the format by adding a second pusher, the very layout most chronographs still follow today. This simple act of separating start-stop and reset functions made the chronograph more intuitive, precise, and far more adaptable — whether timing laps, flights, or lives in motion.
It’s in this spirit of measured movement — of precision meeting purpose — that Breitling’s latest chapter unfolds. The House returns to its most elegant sea watch, the Superocean Heritage, with a thoughtful and sun-soaked refresh. In 1957, Breitling made a decisive leap into underwater timekeeping with the release of the Superocean Ref. 1004 and Ref. 807 — two dive watches that redefined the genre itself. The 1004 was a clean, time-only model; the 807, more audacious — the world’s first chronograph built expressly for diving. Both were technically sound, water-resistant to 200 metres, and aesthetically light years ahead of their peers. Their arrow-and-spear handset, polished cases, and anodised rotating bezels lent the watches a distinctive elegance. They were tools, certainly, but built for those who sought the sea with style.
Now, with the 2025 evolution of the Superocean Heritage, Breitling reasserts its dominance in the arena it helped shape by fine-tuning the frequency. Cleaner lines. Sharper profiles. Fewer colours. And more storytelling.
Reimagined for Today
The new Superocean Heritage collection retains the codes of its predecessors — arrow-and-spear handset, oceanic bevels, mesh-style straps — but elevates them with surgical restraint. The chronograph model, available in 42 mm, houses the in-house Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01: a COSC-certified movement with column-wheel construction and vertical clutch, capable of a 70-hour reserve. Its symmetry is flawless, with tone-on-tone subdials and a repositioned date window at six o’clock. “The Superocean Heritage is our most elegant sea watch, and this update is all about refinement. Every detail has been perfected, but the spirit stays the same. It’s about style at sea,” explains Georges Kern, CEO, Breitling.
Meanwhile, the three-hand variants, offered in 44, 42, 40, and 36 mm sizes, are powered by the B31, Breitling’s newest exclusive manufacture calibre. Launched in March 2025, it’s a slim automatic movement with a 78-hour reserve, quick-set date, and chronometer certification. The 36 mm edition uses the Calibre 10, a reliable COSC-certified ETA-based movement.
Visually, the updates are discreet but significant. The dial palette is distilled to black, blue, and green, all paired with matching ceramic bezel inserts that resist scratches and UV fade. A touch of responsibly sourced 18k red gold appears in select references, giving the watch just enough polish without compromising its tool-watch soul. And then there’s the bracelet: whether in mesh rubber or steel, it now sits flush with the case. A design refinement that feels intuitive, almost inevitable.
On Island Time
Where Breitling’s own archives whisper of European beaches and classic Riviera cool, this new collection takes a detour — westward, toward the Pacific. The campaign is steeped in Hawaiian surf culture, filtered through the lived-in gaze of surfing legend Kelly Slater. The eleven-time world champion, who now calls Hawaii home, has lent both name and spirit to the Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 Kelly Slater — a 500-piece limited edition that feels less like a commemorative watch and more like a keepsake from a wave-washed life. “The people, the community, nature, are all so intertwined in Hawaii,” adds Slater. “The respect Hawaiians have for their land, people, and culture runs deep. It makes Hawaii even more special than what I dreamt of when I was a kid. And now I call it home.”
The dial features a stamped tropical foliage pattern, intended to mirror the dappled light of the island’s jungle canopies. The open caseback reveals the B31 movement, ringed by an engraving denoting its limited edition status. A blue rubber mesh strap or steel bracelet finishes the look, with each timepiece delivered in a presentation box that carries the same floral motif. The watch, in Slater’s own words, reflects “the ocean, nature, and the easygoing style I’ve always connected with.” One suspects it’s also a farewell note — Slater stepped away from professional competition this year, leaving behind a legacy written on water.
Accessories with Intent
If the Superocean Heritage is the centrepiece, its orbit is well designed. Breitling has collaborated with Cutler and Gross, the independent British eyewear brand, on a capsule collection of sunglasses that mirror the watches’ detailing. Temple tips are lacquer-filled to echo the arrow hour hand. Mesh-inspired engraving runs through the core wire. Frames are available in metal, eco acetate, or hybrid forms — all in limited editions of 500.
Then there are the Havaianas. A playful addition, yes, but also a reflection of the brand’s broader lifestyle pivot. With a custom floral design, these sandals are sold at select Breitling boutiques under the ‘Equipment’ line, which offers everything from travel gear to surf accessories.
What Breitling has done with the 2025 Superocean Heritage is a reassertion of relevance through recalibration. By connecting the dots between the invention of the modern chronograph, the birth of the stylish dive watch, and the spiritual cadence of surf culture, the brand makes a compelling case for depth over novelty.
