One is known for making haute horlogerie reasonably affordable while the other is feted for its quirky watch designs. If you are still in the dark, we are talking about Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard and Russian independent watch brand Konstantin Chaykin respectively. So, when they collaborate, watch enthusiasts can expect magic on their wrists and that too without breaking the bank.
The newly launched Le Régulateur Time-Eater watch, born of a collaboration between the two brands, does live up to expectations. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin timepiece is available in two variations: the green-flanged 42 mm (Ref. 85237AA88) and the purple-flanged 39 mm (Ref. 85248AA89). Each is limited to 178 pieces.
This is, of course, not the first collab watch from Louis Erard, founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1929. In the past, the brand teamed up not only with other independent watchmakers, but also with such entities as Leeds Utd FC and Ultima Sports Ltd. On the other hand, with 94 patents, Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is known for its highly complex timepieces. Established in 2003 to bring Russia to mainstream watchmaking, Konstantin Chaykin showcased its first watch at the 2009 Baselworld.
The two new models in question are fresh and quirky. Louis Erard’s fine watchmaking techniques can be found on the huge minute hand and the two subdials with plenty of breathing space in between. If you are fond of Chaykin’s Wristmon or ‘wrist monster’ watches (joker, minotaur, et al), these new models will appeal to you.
But, what is a Regulator in the first place? The most distinctive feature of a Regulator watch is the separation of hours, minutes and seconds. The dial consists of two separate subdials for hours and seconds while the minute hand circles the dial. In such a timepiece, all three hands work off different mechanisms.
The layout of each Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin variation is that of a signature Regulator piece, wherein the revolving eye, indicating the hours, is lodged in the subdial at 12 o’clock. Here, the pupil of the Cyclops-style eye represents the hour hand while the large squiggly matte black central hand indicates the minutes. The minute indicator is read by an arrow with plumage at the other end. While the black star-shaped mouth (time-eater) spinning inside the red flange at 6 o’clock is the seconds subdial, a Konstantin Chaykin signature crown can be found at 3 o’clock.
Each watch gets a polished stainless steel case with a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. The lower silver plate of both models features a silver wave pattern with the Louis Erard logo at 6 o’clock and the Konstantin Chaykin logo at 12 o’clock.
Powering the watches is the automatic Calibre Sellita SW266-1 movement with 38 hours of power reserve. Turning each watch over showcases the special openworked oscillating weight with the black, lacquered Louis Erard symbol, along with the engraving of ‘Limited Edition of XX OF 178’, representing the individual watch number. Both watches are finished on black toad leather straps with attachment points, rabbit leather lining matching the dial colour and polished stainless steel pin buckles. Both versions also come in special box sets, each limited to only 28 pieces.