Moritz Grossmann is the latest to join the salmon-dial bandwagon with the release of the new Power Reserve Salmon from the BENU Heritage line (Ref. MG-003520). The 50-piece limited edition model belongs to the BENU collection — the brand’s very first collection at the time of its launch in 2008. Founded by Carl Moritz Grossman in 1854, the brand — along with the likes of A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, and Nomos — continues to keep German watchmaking craft alive; this new model is a shining example. It succeeds the last Power Reserve (Ref. MG-002270), a white gold model with a solid silver dial.
The 41 mm timepiece comes housed in a three-part stainless steel case with a filigree bezel and integrated lugs. The salmon-coloured dial has blue Arabic numerals, a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and a linear power reserve indicator in a white and blue combination, situated right below 12 o’clock. When the movement is fully wound, the indicator is coloured white; when the power reserve falls, the blue part of the bar increases.
The minute track on the outer periphery is marked in dark grey along with steel hour and minute hands that are coloured blue. The crown at 3 o’clock winds the watch and sets the time; at 4 o’clock, there’s a stainless steel pusher for disabling the hand setting mode and starting the movement. When the wearer sets the time by pulling out the crown, the watch stops; when the correct time is adjusted, there’s no need to push the crown back. The pusher restarts the movement, and the crown returns to the winding mode.
Powering the Moritz Grossmann salmon dial watch is the in-house manual winding, automatic, Calibre 100.2, which is regulated in five positions offering a 42-hour power reserve. Turning the watch reveals the transparent caseback with details like hand-engraving and manual finishing, like those found on the hand-engraved balance cock. The movement has a Glashütte stripe finish while the modern calibres are in white sapphires as jewels, set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws. The watch sits on a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather strap with a solid prong stainless steel buckle.