Modern watchmakers have realised the importance of expanding horizons when it comes to creating luxury watches. This means that most watchmakers have started to come out of their comfort zones; this in turn has led to a massive paradigm shift in terms of where the brands are heading to. This shift is now being seen in compact sizes — catering to a wider audience, including wearers with thinner wrists — new textures, and colourful dials. Audemars Piguet’s two new collections, 39 mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin and 38 mm Code 11.59, are in keeping with this horological trend.
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
Audemars Piguet has presented two new limited editions of its 39 mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model. While the first timepiece (Ref. 16202BC.ZZ.1241BC.01) is crafted in 18 ct white gold and decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, the second (Ref. 16202BA.HH.1241BA.01) combines 18 ct yellow gold with brilliant-cut yellow sapphires.
To be precise, the white gold timepiece is paved with 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds, which adorn the case, the bezel, the dial, and the bracelet. The same gem setting can be found on the yellow gold model, which is entirely covered with yellow sapphires. Each of the 422 stones on the models gets reflected against the gold bezels and applied hour-markers and hands, offering luminous contrasts.
These two variations mark an evolution of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model, revealed in 2018. The collection gets a monochromatic look throughout. The bezel, the case, and individual links of the bracelet get mirror-polished chamfers. The background of the date window at 3 o’clock matches the watches’ white or yellow gold hues. The same applies to the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight, visible on the caseback side, which is either rhodium-toned or plated with yellow gold.
The two new models are driven by Calibre 7121, which displays the hours, the minutes, and the date. The movement includes a larger barrel, thus giving it a power reserve of 55 hours and increased precision. In keeping with Haute Horlogerie codes, Calibre 7121 is embellished with emblematic decorations, such as Côtes de Genève, traits tirés and circular satin finishing, which can be visible through the sapphire caseback. The watches are finished on their respective 18 ct white gold or 18 ct yellow gold bracelets. The bracelet of the first model is set with 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and has an AP folding clasp while the yellow gold variant’s bracelet is set with 968 brilliant-cut yellow sapphires.
Code 11.59 Selfwinding
The new 38 mm Code 11.59 is now presented in a slimmer, 18 ct pink gold case. Like other Code 11.59 family members, the multifaceted case gets high lugs, a slim bezel, and an octagonal case middle, with satin-brushed surfaces and brightly polished bevels. But the key aspect here is the dial, first seen on board the Code 11.59 time-and-date and chronograph models in 41 mm steel cases. The lively pattern on the dial is composed of a series of concentric circles punctuated with tiny holes. The dial also gets a basketweave, with the pattern creating a mesmerising effect.
The collection has been unveiled with two dial options in ivory (Ref. 77410OR.OO.A825CR.01) and purple (Ref. 77410OR.OO.A623CR.01). The upper part of the stylised lugs is welded to the bezel while the lower part leans against the caseback in alignment. The embossed dial produces a striking gradient structure, decorated with hundreds of tiny holes that move outwards from its centre in a wave-like pattern, giving off unique colour effects.
The purple and ivory hues of the two dials have been achieved by PVD (physical vapour deposition) to preserve and enhance the depth of the embossed pattern and maximise the play of light. The new faceted and polished hour markers and hour, minute hands are filled with luminescent coating for optimum legibility in the dark. There is a date window at 3 o’clock with a dial matching background. The minutes track has simple minute markers on the inner flange and there are Arabic numerals spaced at five-minute intervals on the snailed top. The crown at 3 o’clock features shallower yet more pronounced indentations.
The two timepieces are powered by the Manufacturer's latest selfwinding hour, minute, seconds and date movement, Calibre 5900, offering a 60-hour power reserve. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing its 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight, along with the refined decorations, adorning the components, such as the polished angles, vertical satin brushing, Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfering. Both models are finished on “large square scale” alligator straps with each 18 ct pink gold pin buckle engraved with “Audemars Piguet”. The colour of the strap matches the dial colour in purple or ivory.