A Maison synonymous with a vivid and audacious style, Gucci has brought the same spirit to its latest high watchmaking endeavour. Drawing inspiration from the golden age of space travel and discovery, Gucci High Watchmaking explores a new universe, unveiling exquisite timepieces that stay true to the brand's essence.
With five signature collections that feature such complications as a tourbillon, moon phase and a new perpetual calendar, the novelties carry forward Gucci’s precious legacy. The latest timepieces fuse high watchmaking mastery with quintessential motifs of the House, avant-garde artistry and the most remarkable stones.GMT India takes a closer look at the latest collections.
The G-Timeless Planetarium collection features four kaleidoscopic designs that are centred around the Dancing Hours Flying Tourbillon, GGC.1976.DS. It’s named after the Orion Nebula NGC 1976 — one of our galaxy’s brightest nebulae, visible to the naked eye. The tourbillon is placed front and centre on the dial and it’s set with a diamond-studded star. A start-and-stop function on the crown activates a rotation of 12 precious stones, each one spinning itself in 9 seconds and orbiting clockwise round the dial in 90 seconds.
This year, Gucci has also introduced two lunar-themed creations. One is set with 12 Ethiopian opals on a translucent blue background, which highlights their effervescence; the second one is a dreamy, pastel melange of topazes, peridots, amethysts and Ethiopian opals. Another model displays an otherworldly sunset of contrasting reds: rubies, fire opals, pink tourmalines and mandarin garnets. Finally, there is a star-themed creation with four different types of stars, each studded with diamonds, which together envelop the central tourbillon star in a spectacular display of light.
G-Timeless Dancing Bees
The G-Timeless Dancing Bees collection is a celebration of the bee motif, a tribute to life and Nature. It features 12 golden bees on the dial and they hypnotically flutter at the slightest movement of the wrist. Gucci has selected two exceptional stone dials that pay homage to Mother Earth and the beauty of our planet. The first one sports an intense turquoise dial that is reminiscent of the greenish and deep blue water of the oceans seen from space.
The second recalls the lush, verdant lands with a bright pistachio green opal dial, further revitalised by Gucci’s exquisite stone marquetry savoir-faire. To achieve this, the fragile stones are first polished to a thickness of only 0.45 mm before being cut into small, individual rectangles, which are then painstakingly laid on a mother-of-pearl plate, 0.15 mm in thickness. The meticulous craftsmanship is matched by the precision and sophistication of the accompanying tourbillon, which rests within a diamond-set crescent at 12 o'clock.
This year, Gucci’s sophisticated moon-phase calibre GGV838.MP infuses personal expression in a new made-to-order G-Timeless Moonlight, where the wearer’s specific place, time and date of birth are uniquely depicted on the watch. The watch is customised for each individual, with six gemstones that reflect their astral map, linked to zodiac signs and the birth planets’ position, which are then paired with six diamonds that are alternately set on a rotating rehaut. The crown at 2 o’clock activates the rotating rehaut that spins randomly, along with the gemstones in question.
Moreover, the watch boasts a bespoke design, featuring an internal ring that can be engraved with up to five letters, an oscillating weight that reveals the wearer’s constellation and a custom alligator strap. The dial evokes the mystery and magic of our universe with its sparkling, deep blue aventurine glass, layered over a thin mother-of-pearl disc. The layered dial technique continues in two additional designs set with deep, fervent tones, further highlighting the dialogue between the planets in our galaxy. A glittering mother-of-pearl dial, treated with a vivid purple-blue lacquer, brings forth the fire in a multicoloured opal moon-phase disc.
Meanwhile, a second design’s iridescence is brought out by the sliver of the green aventurine glass set on a thin mother-of-pearl base with its purple-green effect contrasting the green opal moon-phase disc below.
The iconic, ultra-thin GUCCI 25H collection goes a step beyond with the openworked GUCCI 25H Skeleton Tourbillon, masterfully set with baguette diamonds, including 60 diamonds on the dial’s floating bridges and 44 on the bezel. A flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock rotates every minute, and perfectly aligns with the bridge once during its journey. The winding stem can also be personalised with up to eight letters on each of the stem’s four sides. The 40 mm masterpiece comes in either 18 ct pink or white gold, with matching gold skeleton hands and stylishly, paired with either a deep cobalt or black alligator strap respectively.
The GUCCI 25H Skeleton Tourbillon with coloured bridges and matching rubber straps is a bold statement. The cool coloured components include an orange platine, pink flying tourbillon cage, purple barrel bridge and green minutery bridges. An electric blue winding stem can also be customised with eight digits on each of its four sides. The colours are inspired by the rich hues represented in the geological map of the moon, a ground-breaking scientific and geological reference that represents a magnified blueprint of the moon.
The latest GUCCI 25H with the perpetual calendar complication is powered by the GG727.25.PC calibre, which displays time alongside days, months, years and moon phase. The watch boasts accuracy and won’t need adjusting until the year 2100. With a thickness of just 9.7 mm, the watch’s architectural signature is echoed in the dial’s horizontal pattern while the five-link bracelet or the alligator strap is ergonomically designed for maximum comfort and fit. The watch comes in three models with gold and steel finishes.
First launched in 2019, the Grip model immediately became a cult design for its pioneering spirit and sense of uniqueness — it’s where 1970s’ skateboarding culture met a sleek, edgy design. Adding an off-beat touch to Gucci high watchmaking is the Grip’s jumping hour mechanism, inviting time to be read in an unusual way — ‘the Gucci way’.
First introduced in the 1920s, the jumping hour mechanism stores energy for 59 minutes, which then punctually powers the ‘jump' to the next hour at the 60th. In 2023, the Grip is fully laid with vintage-like hard stones — either brick red jasper or chrysoprase — set in 18 ct pink gold with matching brick red or mint green display discs and complementary alligator straps. Retro-styled yet playful, it encapsulates Gucci’s spirit perfectly, making it a watch with a ‘grip’.