Patek Philippe Unveils 11 New Timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2024

Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2024 novelties include 11 new models such as the brand’s first non-limited World Time watch featuring a date display synchronised with local time, an addition to the Golden Ellipse collection that marks the return of the chain-style bracelet and nine fresh iterations of flagship models. GMT India takes a closer look at the references.

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World Time Reference 5330G-001 
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First launched as a limited edition at the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, Reference 5330 is now joining the manufacture’s regular collection. It boasts a patented world first: a date display synchronised with local time. The newly-developed movement, the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 HU C, makes this possible via a differential system that indicates the date on the periphery of the dial by making use of a central hand in transparent glass with a red hammer-head-style tip. Housed in a 40mm white gold case, it sports an opaline blue-grey dial with a “carbon” motif; the white gold hour markers and hands have a luminescent coating that enhances legibility.

Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001
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A style icon since it was first introduced in 1968, the Golden Ellipse is instantly identifiable by its unique shape. Up until the early 1980s, alongside leather straps, a choice of chain bracelets or link bracelets in precious metals was available to customers. Patek Philippe is now bringing back that tradition by introducing the new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 on an elegant chain-style bracelet in rose gold. Secured by an engraved clasp with three adjustment notches makes the bracelet incredibly easy to shorten or lengthen, depending on the wearer’s suitability. The superior finish and patented construction of the bracelet lends itself perfectly to the ebony-black sunburst dial featuring slender applied hour markers and hands in rose gold. Sized at 34.5 x 39.5mm with a thickness of mere 5.9mm, the model is the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection, a feat made possible by the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240.

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Three New Versions of Travel Watches

Patek Philippe has long enjoyed a reputation of producing some of horology’s most revered travel watches; now, at Watches and Wonders 2024, three new additions have been made to the brand’s repertoire.

Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG-001
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The Alarm Travel Time, first revealed in 2019 is the quintessential travel watch that combines the exclusive Travel Time dual-time display with a 24-hour alarm mechanism featuring a hammer striking a classic gong. This new iteration offers a two-tone reinterpretation of that very model with a rose gold case and four white gold pusher tubes. The dial has two-tone visual elements as well: grey sunburst and charcoal grey; the hour markers and sword-shaped hands appear in charcoal-grey white gold with a luminescent coating. It’s powered by the caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS self-winding movement, whose development was granted four patents.

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Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164G-001
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The first version of the Aquanaut Travel Time in white gold, this 40.88mm watch features a dial in blue-grey opaline and a matching integrated strap. The overall visual harmony heightens the modern, casual chic spirit of the timepiece. The self-winding caliber 26-330 S C FUS powers the display of the second time zone, ensuring that legibility is never compromised. Pressing on one of the two pushers set into the left flank of the case moves the local-hour hand in one-hour steps, without letting the accuracy dip. The date is indicated by hand at 6 o’clock; the local time indicator is located right above. The rounded octagonal bezel, an Aquanaut hallmark, sports contrasting polished and satin finishes.
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Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269R-001
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When the Aquanaut range first welcomed a travel watch with a quartz movement that incorporated the Travel Time function, it featured a rose gold case with a diamond-set bezel and a white dial and strap. This new version, also in rose gold, is free of diamonds. The blue-grey opaline dial stands out too, the embossed Aquanaut motif instantly drawing the attention of the viewer. The rose gold baton-style hands have white luminescent coating; the micro-applied “Home” inscription appearing at 6 o’clock is also made of rose gold. Sized at 38.8mm, the rose gold has contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes that accentuate its contours.

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Three Upgraded Variants of Calendar Watches

No stranger to advanced calendar complications, Patek Philippe has added three new references to its impressive line of calendar watches.

In-line Perpetual Calendar Reference 5236P-010
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In 2021, Patek Philippe introduced a new perpetual calendar with day, date and month indications in one large aperture at the 12 o’clock position. This Grand Complication timepiece was launched in a platinum case framing a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery. This new version is reminiscent of that older model with its vintage-inspired opaline rose-gilt dial and charcoal grey white gold hour markers and faceted baton-type hands. Measuring 41.3mm with a thickness of 11.07mm, the platinum case is entirely hand-polished and set with a diamond at 6 o’clock; the sloping lugs extend the visual momentum of the bevelled bezel. The self-winding 31-260 PS QL caliber runs the timepiece; it’s notable for its additional module (that has been awarded three patents) and its mini-rotor in platinum increasing the winding power.

Rare Handcrafts Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Reference 5160/500R-001
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‍‍“Officer’s” style perpetual calendars with a retrograde date hand, straight lugs, and sapphire-crystal backs protected by a hinged dust cover continue to remain highly sought after among those drawn to rare timepieces. A good example of this is the Reference 5160/500G-001 in white gold, which was launched by Patek Philippe in 2016. The brand has now reinterpreted this model in rose gold with a silvery opaline gold dial that showcases applied Breguet numerals in blackened white gold and pear-shaped hands in black-oxidised yellow gold. A striking feature of the timepiece is the hand-engraving inspired by a pocket watch belonging to the Patek Philippe Museum. The charming 38mm timepiece is powered by self-winding 26-330 S QR caliber. 
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‍Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017

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The Annual Calendar Reference 5396, launched in 2006, garnered a fan base rather quickly, thanks to its double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, date aperture at 6 o’clock and its subsidiary 24-hour dial incorporating a moon-phase display. This new version of the model comes cased in white gold and features a blue sunburst dial with a black gradient at the rim, elegantly lit up by twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers. Sized at 38.5mm, the timepiece pairs an easy elegance with a contemporary air accentuated by the white gold faceted hands that are set off harmoniously against the blue of the dial. Self-winding 26-330 S QA LU 24H caliber powers the annual calendar mechanism that requires only one correction per year, invented and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996.

In addition to the above timepieces, the brand unveiled a few more additions to its flagship collections such as the Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-010 that joins the timelessly elegant and feminine Twenty~4 collection, the new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001, and the new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 in white gold adorned with diamonds and blue sapphires, showcasing the brand’s mastery over “snow” and “baguette” settings.