For Watches and Wonders 2023, Panerai has reimagined the legendary Radiomir model that is primarily known for its association with the Italian Navy since the 1930s. The watch has had numerous variations over the years – in terms of size, shape and material – even for its signature sandwich construction. This year, the brand has launched three new versions of the Radiomir – Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California and Radiomir Quaranta GoldtechTM.
Taking all time-telling elements and putting them together in a new in-house movement, Panerai’s Annual Calendar includes such functions as seconds, minutes, hours, days and even months of the year. Regarding Panerai’s first annual calendar complication, which has been developed specifically for the Radiomir collection, the brand has lived up to its reputation of making movements with clarity and readability.
The dial displays complete information with date at 3 o’clock and the day and date through two dial openings. The current month can be seen on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock. When the month changes, a cam in the movement turns the disc in one go, making the information get changed instantly. Moreover, the change from 30-day to 31-day months is made automatically by the mechanism and an adjustment is needed only once a year, at the end of February.
Readability and functionality are the keywords for Panerai, as after setting the month and the date, a corrector on the left side of the case allows you to change the day, click by click.
The watch is equipped with the automatic P.9010/AC caliber; the Annual Calendar is an automatic movement visible through the sapphire crystal open-back case. The sandwich dial, a signature of the Maison, features months, days and the name of the complication, Calendario Annuale. The watch shows off Radiomir details in its design, 45 mm cushion-shaped case, signature gradient sunbrushed sandwich dial, filled with Super-LumiNova® and cone-shaped crown.
Panerai’s inventive spirit pairs this new movement with cases crafted from its innovative materials. Ref. PAM01363 with a sun-brushed blue-shaded dial transitions from a light centre to a darker gradient at the edges while the blue hand-dyed matte alligator strap is set in a 45 mm Goldtech™ case. Panerai Goldtech™ is a material developed for the first time by the brand, including a combination of platinum and copper, sporting an intense-red appearance.
On the other hand, Ref. PAM01364 features a sun-brushed green-shaded dial and a dark brown hand-dyed matte alligator strap and is set in a 45 mm Platinumtech™ case. Panerai Platinumtech™ is created to maintain platinum’s deep lustre; it is harder and significantly more resistant to scratches than traditional platinum.
As a nod to its Italian roots, Panerai has introduced the Experience edition, PAM01432, which is the third reference in the collection, wherein individuals are invited to participate in an immersive experience that offers a sneak peek at the Maison’s values. The Experience edition boasts a sunbrushed burgundy shaded dial and a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap and it is set in a 45 mm Platinumtech™ case. Owners of this watch will be invited to participate in an extraordinary journey to the Eternal City, Rome, Italy. The immersive experience will acquaint participants with the essence of the brand through events that combine artisanal knowhow with tours of historical sites.
All three references come with Panerai’s adjustable BDR buckles, matched to the cases for ease of wear and added security, and also as an elegant finishing touch to protect the complication. The Annual Calendar collection is a boutique exclusive.
Panerai Radiomir California
Panerai has always made the California dial in a 47 mm case, so it's exciting to see the watch in a 45 mm case for the first time. The Radiomir California PAM01349 sports a green dial and the watch draws inspiration from Ref 3646 from the archives of the Maison. The Panerai California dial is characterised by alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes and a minute track – hours 10, 11, 1 and 2 are marked in Roman numerals while hours 4, 5, 7, and 8 are marked in Arabic numerals, resulting in a dial, where every half is distinguished by two different types of numerals.
The case is crafted from Brunito eSteel™, a brand-new finishing and a first-ever in the history of Panerai. It lends the timepiece an antiquated look. Each case is hand-finished to create a seasoned look and the intently weathered effect of the eSteel™ case is created via PVD (physical vapour deposition).
The watch also has slim wire lugs and a cone-shaped crown. Super-LumiNova® highlights the indexes in beige, illuminated in green when in the dark. Metallic blue hands adorn the dial, along with a domed sapphire crystal, reminiscent of the Plexiglas® crystal used in the early versions of the Radiomir for the Italian military. PAM01349 comes with a supple calf leather in dark brown with contrast stitching. The strap features an exclusive detail – a hot printed inscription of ‘G. Panerai e Figlio’, the exact phrase found on the signage of the original Panerai workshop in Florence.
The watch is powered by a hand-wound P.5000 calibre and features an eight-day power reserve. The revered eight-day movement can be seen through the open caseback in sapphire crystal.
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech™
Launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ is crafted in a polished Goldtech™ case (PAM01026). It features a white sun-brushed dial, paired with a matte brown alligator strap. This timepiece embodies a contemporary spirit with the iconic cushion-shaped case while the white sun-brushed sandwich dial features indexes and numerals only at 12 and 6 o’clock, and reflects light rays with the movement of the wearer. The beige Super-LumiNova® gets illuminated in green in the dark.
For more details about the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech™, check out GMT India’s Spring 2023 issue.