Louis Moinet, a brilliant horologist ahead of his time, invented the first chronograph and high-frequency watch but received recognition only after his death. To honour his legacy, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet was founded by Jean-Marie Schaller, creating unique mechanical timepieces that embody creativity, exclusivity, art and design. Their latest collection, launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, celebrates time with technical superiority, innovation and minimalism. Explore the novelties with GMT India.
Marriage of Tourbillon and Chronograph: The IMPULSION
Two titans in horology, Abraham-Louis Breguet and Louis Moinet, brought forth the tourbillon and chronograph complications respectively. Today, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet has masterfully integrated these complications to create their latest novelty, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, called IMPULSION.
The IMPULSION distinguishes itself from its predecessors by making the chronograph mechanism entirely visible on the dial side, a world first. This feature, coupled with the flying tourbillon, produces an interesting spectacle. The chronograph hand, activated by a single pusher, glides over the rotating tourbillon cage, performing one revolution per minute.
The IMPULSION's case is 42.50 mm, made of grade 5 titanium for lightweight comfort. The core comes in Moinet blue or intense black, contrasted by an 18-carat pink gold frame with hollowed-out lugs and a middle. The curved crystal adds allure and optimises chronograph reading.
The in-house Memoris calibre features a classic horizontal clutch, a column wheel and a single pusher, along with a tourbillon. The ‘volte-face’ double spring barrel system powers the manual winding system, providing a 96-hour power reserve. Crafted by Louis Moinet and Concepto, IMPULSION is a masterpiece assembled in the Swiss Jura Mountains, bearing the Moinet signature. This watch is both beautiful and technically innovative, a true mechanical work of art.
Magic of Chronograph: The MEMORIS SPIRIT Electrum
The MEMORIS SPIRIT Electrum boasts a unique electrum gold colour with a metallic finish, lending it a high-tech feel. Its Grade 5 titanium case features a diameter of 40.7 mm with fluid curves; it weighs only 18 grams. The mechanism comprises over 300 components divided into two parts: the automatic winding part at the back and the chronograph part at the front. With a single push-button, one can launch a unique spectacle that showcases the column wheel's performance. It has a power reserve of 48 hours and water resistance of 50 metres.
The MEMORIS SPIRIT's design includes innovative technical solutions that reveal strong stylistic elements, such as the sapphire dome that optimises the arrangement of volumes inside, the open-worked lugs that emphasise smooth integration with the bracelet and the ergonomic single push-button that facilitates chronograph use. The crown support was designed with aerodynamic lines and the translucent counters allow for appreciation of the mechanism's complexity. The dial side displays the magic of the chronograph and the watch's design fully respects Louis Moinet's heritage, inspired by his first chronograph, created in 1816 (Guinness World Records™). The MEMORIS SPIRIT Electrum is delivered with a green preformed rubber strap. It is a limited edition of 60 watches.
Witness the Choreography of Time: The TEMPOGRAPH SPIRIT
The TEMPOGRAPH SPIRIT timepiece is an impressive and technically advanced watch featuring a retrograde seconds mechanism that executes a precise choreography 4,320 times per day, instantly returning to zero each time. To ensure accuracy, the watch employs two innovative elements: a ruby-tipped rake that drives the second hand and falls into a three-armed cam every 20 seconds and a silicon return spring that provides constant force and precision.
The watch design is remarkable, with two distinct visual zones. The left showcases the retrograde mechanism while the right displays time indications. The dominant retrograde hand in the dial centre displays twenty-second sequences on a dedicated segment, creating a unique animation. A red, black and blue counter marks the three twenty-second sequences that make up each minute.
CEO and Creative Director Jean-Marie Schaller says, "Some people prefer to watch time passing while others take advantage of every second. The TEMPOGRAPH SPIRIT offers a new perception of time, whether as a measuring instrument or as the magic of the moment. The fact that the twenty seconds are displayed on a segment, and not a circle, underscores the importance of each passing second and awakens the senses."
With 254 components and a 48-hour power reserve, the watch's exclusive calibre boasts circular-grained Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished sinks, and 5N colour-finish, circular-grained gears. The watch's curious design narrative reflects force and modernism, combining technical innovation with style.
Personalising Your Racing Style: TIME TO RACE
The TIME TO RACE collection — that celebrates the fusion of man and machine in the world of motorsport — holds special appeal for gentleman drivers. Unlike a limited series, this collection offers unique pieces that collectors can personalise by choosing their lucky number, displayed on the watch front and a colour code.
At Watches and Wonders 2023, the new Silver Winner model features a silver tint and red number, which instantly brings German racing cars to mind. Another model, Orange Papaya, uses a vibrant orange with a blue number, inspired by the aesthetics of hypercars.
The TIME TO RACE watch's complex chronograph mechanism is fully visible on the dial side with a domed sapphire crystal. A bi-material flange with luminescent indices and a woven carbon fibre plate highlights the mechanism's column wheel. The Grade 5 titanium case, weighing only 18 grams, features new crown support and satin-finished lugs. A single push-button sets off the chronograph, activating a choreography of rockers, hammers, and wheels. The subdial at 6 o'clock displays the owner's lucky number on a polished metal ring.