Luxury watchmaker Arnold & Son’s fascination with the moon and complications is well known. The La Chaux-de-Fonds-based manufacturer is known for its grand complications, tourbillons, luna magna, and other complex watch elements. At the recently concluded Geneva Watch Days, the timepiece maker unveiled three new novelties: a women's Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight (Ref. 1GLM.WZ03A.C247A) watch, and two variants from the DSTB collection, namely Red Gold (Ref. 1ATCR.U01A.C200A) and Platinum (Ref. 1ATCX.P01A.C200X).
PERPETUAL MOON 38 MINTNIGHT
Aesthetically, the watch more or less resembles the previous versions of the Perpetual Moon timepiece. The new complication timepiece for women is limited to only 18 pieces. This watch comes in a 38 mm 18 ct white gold case with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, the bezel, and the crown at 3 o’clock. The ‘Mintnight’ dial gets shades of mint green, sky blue, turquoise, and teal, with the foreground displaying ruthenium crystals. The ‘sky’ is made of mother-of-pearl, with graduated shades of blue, hand-painted Big Dipper and Cassiopeia constellations, and five marquise-cut diamonds as hour markers.
The complication calibre is its moon phase, which houses the large moon disc with its various crescents, occupying the wide window situated between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, to depict the appearance of Earth’s natural satellite. The precision timepiece maker has ensured that the watch remains accurate for the next 122 years.
Powering the watch is the A&S1612, a manual winding movement with 90 hours of power reserve. The mainplate is rhodium-plated with Côtes de Genève stripes, radiating from the centre. Turning the watch over showcases the sapphire caseback with an oscillating weight and a balance wheel with the engraving of the individual watch number. The watch gets a teal-blue satin-feel alligator leather strap with hand-stitched raspberry-pink alligator-leather lining. The latter also has a pin buckle in 18 ct white gold, set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds.
DSTB 42 Platinum & DSTB 42 Red Gold
DSTB stands for ‘Dial-Side True Beat’. The new 42 mm novelties include the DSTB 42 Red Gold watch in a 5N red gold case and featuring a sunray-brushed blue PVD-treated dial, and the DSTB 42 Platinum variant, crafted from platinum and featuring a sunray-brushed and rose gold PVD-treated salmon dial. These are slimmer, compared with the previous two 44 mm versions; one was launched in stainless steel on a blue snailed mainplate and the other in a red gold case on a NAC grey treated mainplate. The red gold model is limited to 88 pieces while the platinum version is limited to 38 pieces.
The true-beat seconds function is a characteristic of the instruments that watchmaker John Arnold supplied to the Royal Navy. Both timepieces have exhibition true-beat seconds display on the dials and white off-centred dials with Roman numerals for hour, minute hands. There are three openworked bridges in either white gold for the platinum version or in red gold for the red gold version on which lies the second hand.
The dial also has a circular minute tracker in white or blue colour, depending on the model, and an anchor-shaped counterpoise, which moves as the underlying calibre does its work, controlling the seconds hand. Powering the watches is the in-house automatic Calibre A&S6203 self winding movement with 55 hours of power reserve. Both models are finished on blue alligator leather straps with hand-stitched pin buckles in either red gold or platinum.