Breguet’s historic association with watchmaking and aviation — that goes back to the 19th and 20th centuries — is rather well known. So, it’s no surprise that the brand chose to bank on that rich heritage to come up with the new Type XX and Type 20, two stunning takes on the historic Type XX chronograph that was originally commissioned by the French Navy in the 1950s.
The new releases include the military-inspired Type 20 Chronographe 2057 (Ref. 2057ST/92/3WU), and the civilian-inspired Type XX Chronographe 2067 (Ref. 2067ST/92/3WU). These launches follow the Type XX (Ref. 3800ST) that was discontinued in 2018.
Both models come housed in 42 mm stainless steel cases and embody the same spirit as the first-generation models of the Type XX, as is evident by the faceted lugs, signature pushers and polished accents. The flyback function is also common to both variants. The new calibres — robust and innovative — took four years to develop and come protected with several patents.
The Military-Inspired Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057
The large Arabic numerals on the dial aid legibility and come coloured in the same mint green as the triangle on the non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel. The black dial features a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 60-second counter at 9 o’clock, and a date window at 4:30. The original pear shape of the crown at 3 o’clock is retained and it’s adjustable in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting.
The chronograph is activated by the pusher at 2 o’clock and the one at 4 o’clock serves the “flyback” function. While the former is used to start and stop the watch, the latter resets the chronograph and the minute counter. The Type 20 is powered by the in-house self-winding, automatic Calibre 7281 that offers a 60-hour power reserve and a frequency of 5Hz. Turning the watch showcases the closed stainless steel caseback with twelve sides. The watch comes with interchangeable straps: one in Nato fabric, another crafted from calfskin leather.
The Civilian-Version Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067
Inspired by the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, this model comes with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. The classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher facilitates the starting and stopping of the chronograph functions while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, staying true to the “flyback” principle.
The 15-minute counter on the black dial is placed at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter is positioned at 6 o’clock and the running seconds are displayed at 9 o’clock. The Arabic numerals, the hands, and the triangle on the bezel all come with an ivory-coloured luminescent coating. The date window appears at 4:30. At the heart of this Type XX is the in-house self-winding, automatic Calibre 728. It offers 60 hours of power reserve and a 5Hz frequency. Turning the watch reveals the blackened oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo. The column wheel of the movement gets a black DLC treatment. The interchangeable straps available include one in Nato fabric and the other in calfskin leather.