Every two decades, a brand must renew itself to stay relevant: Biren Vaidya, Managing Director, Rose Group

Biren Vaidya is the visionary force behind Rose — a high jewellery house and a celebrated multi-brand watch retailer — a name that embodies the language of Indian luxury. Over a career spanning more than four decades, he has shaped the brand into a refined expression of artistry and craftsmanship, elevating luxury beyond object and into experience, one that marks life’s most meaningful moments.

As Managing Director and creative custodian of the Rose Group, Vaidya has guided the brand through three defining reinventions. His leadership balances classical sophistication with an instinct for the avant-garde, ensuring Rose continues to evolve while remaining attuned to the aesthetics and aspirations of a contemporary audience. As Rose celebrates its 45th anniversary this year, GMT India caught up with Vaidya to delve deeper into the philosophy that drives his passion for luxury. 

GMT India: As the House of Rose marks its 45th anniversary, looking back at the evolution from Opera House to Ballard Estate, which milestones do you consider the most pivotal in shaping the brand’s identity?

Biren Vaidya (BV): When I reflect on this journey, a few moments stand out as turning points. The launch of our first Rose Salon at Breach Candy in 2004 gave the brand its own voice and sense of identity. Crafting our first Treasure in 2011 defined our creative philosophy and our commitment to rarity. The launch of Rose The Watch Bar expanded Rose beyond jewellery into a broader world of craftsmanship. Finally, moving to Ballard Estate symbolised entering a new era, one rooted in experience, storytelling, and a more global vision for Rose.

GMT India: Over the decades, the House of Rose has gone through multiple reinventions. How do you know when it’s time for the brand to evolve, and when to hold on to tradition?

BV: I strongly believe that every two decades, a brand must renew itself to stay relevant. Rose is now in its third reinvention, designed to resonate with a new generation of clients. While our aesthetics, spaces, and experiences evolve, our core values and our seven philosophies remain untouched. Craftsmanship, integrity, and respect for heritage are non-negotiable. The key is knowing what to protect and what to reinterpret, evolution should feel like growth, not disruption.

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GMT India: Many of your limited-edition timepieces, such as The Ranthambore Reserve, feel deeply narrative-driven. How important is storytelling in today’s luxury landscape, especially in watches and high jewellery?

BV: Storytelling is fundamental to modern luxury. Today’s collectors seek meaning, emotion, and a personal connection with what they own. A narrative transforms craftsmanship into memory and design into emotion. In watches and high jewellery, storytelling gives context to complexity and depth to rarity. It is what turns an object into something that feels intimate, memorable, and timeless.

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GMT India: The Indian landscape for luxury watchmaking has changed a lot in the last few years. What are the key shifts that you have noticed? 

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BV: In an increasingly digital world, the value of human connection has only deepened. At Rose, we continue to focus on craftsmanship, materiality, and meaningful interactions. Today’s clients — particularly the new generation of collectors — seek more than just ownership; they seek understanding. They want to know the story, the artistry, and the intent behind each creation. They are also drawn to pieces that feel truly unique — creations that reflect individuality and depth rather than repetition. This growing desire for authenticity and distinction reaffirms our belief that true luxury will always be defined by human touch and timeless craftsmanship.

GMT India: The House of Rose at Ballard Estate represents a shift from traditional retail to experiential luxury. What do you want clients to experience when they walk into this space?

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BV: The House of Rose is designed to be experienced, not simply visited. I want patrons to engage with luxury through all five senses — what they see, smell, hear, taste, and feel. This modern interpretation of Rose goes beyond product display into immersive storytelling. Every detail is intentional, designed to reflect a lifestyle. It’s a space where luxury becomes emotional, personal, and deeply human.

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GMT India: Your collaborations with maisons like Chopard, Blancpain, Bvlgari, and Backes & Strauss have been highly curated. What do you look for in a partner before committing to a collaboration?

BV: For me, collaboration begins with shared values, maisons that respect craftsmanship, heritage, and long-term vision. A partnership must feel authentic and creatively aligned, not commercially driven. There should be mutual trust and a willingness to tell a story together. When the philosophy aligns, the collaboration naturally feels meaningful and enduring.

GMT India: From creating the Empress of Rose to curating Treasures of Rose, you’ve worked with some of the world’s rarest gemstones. What draws you to rarity, and how do you decide when a stone becomes a ‘treasure’?

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BV: A Treasure is a one-of-a-kind piece, something that can never be replicated because the gemstones are exquisite and rare. A gemstone becomes a Treasure when nature presents something truly extraordinary. Our role is to honour that rarity through thoughtful design and exceptional craftsmanship. Each piece is created sparingly, with deep respect for the material. A true Treasure is not about excess; it is about legacy, appreciation, and timeless value.

GMT India: Which House of Rose collection would you define as the most iconic?

BV: For me, Colours of Life remains one of the most iconic Rose collections. It allowed us to approach jewellery as art, bringing together precious and semi-precious gemstones with diamonds in a way that celebrated colour, contrast, and emotion. The collection moved away from traditional hierarchies and focused on harmony and visual storytelling. Colours of Life represents creative freedom and confidence, while remaining deeply rooted in fine craftsmanship and design integrity.

GMT India: As you celebrate the 45th anniversary, what do you hope the next generation of Rose patrons and designers will take forward from the legacy you’ve built?

BV: I hope the next generation values authenticity over fleeting trends. Luxury should be slow, thoughtful, and deeply meaningful. I want designers and patrons alike to respect heritage, while having the courage to evolve it. If they carry forward integrity, curiosity, and a commitment to craftsmanship, the legacy of Rose will continue to grow naturally and purposefully.

GMT India: In your personal journey with watches and jewellery, which has been the most rewarding piece you have helped bring to life? 

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BV: In my journey with watches and jewellery, each collaboration has been special and deeply personal. Every partnership has allowed us to tell a unique story through design and craftsmanship, and each timepiece we’ve brought to life reflects a meeting of minds and shared passion for excellence.

Over the years, we’ve had the privilege of collaborating with some of the world’s most distinguished maisons, from the Bvlgari Serpenti limited edition and the Chopard Happy Sport edition to creations with Franck Muller and now, Backes & Strauss. Each partnership has taught us something new — whether it’s a different design philosophy, a technical innovation, or a deeper understanding of craftsmanship.

Every collector, and each of us at Rose, has our personal favourites. However, what remains constant is the sense of pride and learning that comes from these collaborations. Together, they embody our belief that when worlds of excellence unite, something truly enduring is created.

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