Nominations for the GPHG 2023 Calendar and Astronomy category are as thrilling as those in the other sections. The GPHG rules state that "men's mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.), additional indications and/or complications are admissible". Needless to say, this category stands out courtesy of its captivating subjectivity. In other words, unlike other categories with strict criteria, Calendar and Astronomy invites a breathtaking array of interpretations and designs. This inclusive spirit sets the stage for a dazzling line-up of horological wonders, all vying for the prestigious title. Brace yourselves as GMT India unveils the nominees.
BOVET 1822 RÉCITAL 20 ASTÉRIUM
The Récital 20 Astérium is a standout in BOVET's Astronomical Complications collection, alongside the Récital 18 Shooting Star and the Récital 22 Grand Récital. Encased in a blend of 18 ct white and 18 ct red gold, this timepiece showcases a night sky map with laser-engraved stars and constellations on a translucent blue quartz dome. Its sidereal calendar accurately reflects Earth's orbit, ensuring precise celestial position displays. Adjusting the calendar is straightforward, carried out by moving a central hand. This hand also indicates zodiac signs, seasons, solstices, and equinoxes.
On the front side, the moon phase and power reserve indicators complement the retrograde minutes hand and the 24-hour dial for time and navigation. A patented double-face flying tourbillon governs the seconds hand. The Astérium's movement features meticulous engraving and polished angles, enhancing the viewing experience of the night sky and the rear sapphire dial. Boasting a remarkable 10-day power reserve, it's a testament to both craftsmanship and innovation.
FELIPE PIKULLIK MOON PHASE 1
After two years of development, Felipe unveiled the moon phase watch, attesting to their commitment to traditional craftsmanship. This complication marks his first step towards a fully self-developed and handmade movement, with all components meticulously crafted using traditional watchmaking skills.
The moon phase's dial showcases intricate design, featuring hand engravings, frosting, and bevelled edges. It offers a choice of numeral styles and presents the moon from the perspective of the Southern Hemisphere, honouring Felipe's Brazilian heritage. A significant challenge was fitting the sizeable moon into the case without increasing its thickness. Felipe's ingenious solution places the moon at the heart of the mechanism, with a minimal 0.4 mm difference from the movement.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BIG PILOT'S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOP GUN LAKE TAHOE
The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Lake Tahoe, part of IWC's Colors of TOP GUN collection, boasts a 46.5 mm white ceramic case, inspired by Lake Tahoe's winter scenery. This unique ceramic is emblematic of IWC's material expertise.
It features a black dial, luminescent hands, stainless steel accents, and a white rubber strap for a striking contrast. White ceramic showcases IWC's advanced material craftsmanship, dating back to the 1980s. This timepiece includes IWC's renowned perpetual calendar, mechanically programmed to operate flawlessly until the year 2100, and a patented double moon phase display. The IWC 52615 caliber movement powers the calendar, offering a seven-day power reserve through an automatic Pellaton winding system. The sapphire glass back provides a view of the intricate movement.
MASSENA LAB HABRING² X MASSENA LAB CHRONO FELIX PERPETUAL
Massena LAB introduced the Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual (LAB-CFP), a monopusher chronograph and perpetual calendar, in collaboration with Habring². Drawing inspiration from the iconic Patek Philippe reference 1518, a legendary perpetual calendar chronograph from the 1940s, coveted by collectors, the LAB-CFP's dial features applied Arabic numerals for its hour markers, evoking the spirit of the 1518.
With a monochromatic black-and-steel dial concept, inspired by photography negatives, the LAB-CFP delivers a high-contrast and legible display. The LAB-CFP combines the functionalities of a monopusher chronograph with a perpetual calendar, showcasing hour and minute indicators, day of the week at 3 o'clock, month and leap year indicators at 6 o'clock, day of the month at 9 o'clock, and a moon phase and chronograph 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock. Driving the LAB-CFP is the in-house manual winding A11CP caliber, a technical marvel packed into a compact 38.5 mm case. It's a rare fusion of craftsmanship and innovation.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF XIALI CHINESE CALENDAR
The Tonda PF Xiali Chinese Calendar watch seamlessly combines both solar and lunar calendars, independently calculated and synchronised for precision. This timepiece offers a wealth of information, encompassing hours and minutes, month display with numbering, occasional additional months (every three years), short (29 days) and long (30 days) months, solar terms corresponding to the 24 divisions of the sun's path, year pointer and name, animal and element indications in alternating colours (Yin or Yang), day numbering, and moon phases.
This intricate watch incorporates a sophisticated mechanism, concealed within its case, facilitating the presentation of this wealth of information in classical Chinese characters. Quick adjustments and corrections can be effortlessly made using the various correctors located on both sides of the case middle.
PIAGET PIAGET POLO PERPETUAL CALENDAR OBSIDIAN
Piaget is known for its signature ornamental stones, cherished for their vibrant colours and robustness. The dial of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian epitomises this sentiment. Crafted from obsidian gemstone, it emanates a unique iridescence, attributable to inclusions formed during the solidification process when mineral-rich sulphide liquid droplets are trapped within rocks. These inclusions, occurring rarely in nature, ensure each stone's distinctiveness.
In this timepiece, Piaget combines obsidian with a white gold case, housing a perpetual calendar. This inclusion imparts a bold, technical, gender-neutral aspect to the sensuous design. Furthermore, Piaget's affection for coloured stones is evident in the deep blue sapphires, encircling the dial, secured by dark claws, heightening its individuality. Limited to just 18 collectible editions, this timepiece offers the convenience of getting transformed into a rubber bracelet for everyday wear.