Hublot’s Novelties Steal The Show at Watches and Wonders 2023

Hublot has just unveiled an impressive range of timepieces. Watch geeks can marvel at the latest Big Bang and Classic Fusion collections, among others
Hublot’s Novelties Steal The Show at Watches and Wonders 2023
March 27, 2023
Hublot’s Novelties Steal The Show at Watches and Wonders 2023

Formerly known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches & Wonders has, over the years, become one of the most significant platforms for interactions between manufacturers and passionate timepiece connoisseurs from across the world. The first watch fair, under the name ‘Watches & Wonders’, was hosted in Hong Kong in 2013; it was organised by the SIHH Exhibitors Committee. Some of the world’s most revered luxury watch brands now take part in the trade gala, the latest edition of which is currently being held in Geneva. Hublot is part of the Watches and Wonders pantheon and it has unveiled stunning novelties at the event. GMT India examines what’s on offer from the brand.

MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde

The Art of Fusion is expressed right through to the heart of the movement.

The brand is recognised for its Big Bang, Classic Fusion and FIFA collaborated timepieces. Other collections are also sought-after. The MP series ‘Masterpiece’ was first unveiled at the Geneva Trade Show in 2011 with MP-01, limited to 100 pieces. Now, we get its thirteenth variation as Hublot has unveiled the MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde (Ref. 913.NX.1170.RX) at the ongoing 2023 Watches and Wonders. It is limited to only 50 pieces. 

Both from an aesthetic and technological perspective, Hublot’s various MP models represent some of the most advanced, impressive, and “out there” designs that the brand has ever put forward.

The 44 mm MP-13 timepiece is encased entirely in brushed titanium and for the first time, brings together two complications — the tourbillon and the retrograde display — in one timepiece. The tourbillon features two axes; it completes a full rotation every minute on one axis and another every 30 seconds on the other. Having two speeds within the same mechanism creates a view that is both hypnotic and technical. 

Additionally, just like other Hublot Big Bang watches, the case of the new MP-13 features an integrated lug design that connects to a rubber strap with a matching titanium deployant buckle.

The three variables — double axis, bi-retrograde and four days of power — are typically never seen together as retrograde displays are energy-intensive. The MP-13 timepiece is run by HUB6200, a manual winding movement with 96 hours of power reserve, with the power reserve indicator located at 11 o’clock. Turning the watch over showcases the satin-finished titanium, skeleton caseback, where the individual watch number has been engraved. You can see a titanium oscillating weight as well. 

Now let's move on to the other Hublot novelties.

Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon

The new limited edition Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon proves there is still plenty of innovation to be found in carbon case designs, while also delivering a spectacularly skeletonized in-house tourbillon movement.

The Big Bang’s case has been designed to have an integrated bracelet (as opposed to a strap). The luxury timepiece maker has crafted the Big Bang integral in a series of materials. Taking the collection to newer heights, the newly launched Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon (Ref. 455.YS.0170.YS) comes in a 43 mm carbon fibre and texalium case. 

The 43mm-wide, 14.15mm-thick case of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon keeps faithful to the familiar Big Bang silhouette but gives new energy to this angular integrated design with its striking two-tone case construction

This 50-piece limited-edition model comprises two genuine complications: the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the micro-rotor at 12 o’clock, with the ‘Hublot’ engraving. With the integrated bracelet and the nature of materials used, the timepiece has a monochromatic visual appeal. 

While this dynamic new material covers the upper planes of the case, the bezel, and each link of the fully integrated bracelet, the sides of these elements (along with the Big Bang’s distinctive bezel flanges at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock) are left in traditional black carbon.

The integrated bracelet is made of 100% carbon fibre and is protected by texalium. The crown gets a rubber insert at 3 o’clock and there are two side lugs to protect the case. You can see six iconic functional screws on the bezel and the double sapphire crystal (face and back) with anti-reflective treatment. Turning the watch over showcases the microblasted, black-plated titanium caseback with the engraving of the individual watch number, out of 50, and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The movement is the same as that seen in the 2021 sapphire edition: the HUB6035 manufactured automatic movement with  72 hours of power reserve. 

Square Bang Unico Sapphire, White Ceramic and Black Magic

The architectural lines of the square case made of polished synthetic sapphire transform each piece into a contemporary work of art.

At last year’s Watches and Wonders, Hublot launched five variations of its famous square-shaped watch. At the ongoing Watches and Wonders, the Swiss timepiece maker has launched three new versions of the Square Bang — Sapphire (Ref. 821.JX.0120.RT), White Ceramic (Ref. 821.HX.0170.RX) and Black Magic (Ref. 821.CI.0170.RX). The one with the sapphire case is a 250-piece limited-edition watch. 

Different and yet so similar, the Square Bang Unico White Ceramic and Square Bang Unico Black Magic models emphasize another of Hublot’s technical achievements.

Maintaining the same 42 mm diameter as its predecessor, the new collection gets six screws on the case, accompanied by six screws on the bezel and 4 screws on the side lugs. The watch gets a column wheel at 6 o’clock, with a seconds window at 9 o’clock and a minute window at 3 o’clock with an in-built date window.

Highly complicated to machine, monochrome ceramics require unfailing dexterity and considerable expertise

Powering the three watches is the in-house MHUB1280 UNICO 2 automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve. The sapphire model gets a polished sapphire and sapphire crystal caseback, engraving of the individual watch number, out of 250, and an oscillating weight. The black-and-white ceramic variants get microblasted white or black ceramic and sapphire crystal casebacks with oscillating weights. 

This flyback chronograph movement delivers three days of autonomy in displaying the time data

The watches are finished either on transparent, structured rubber straps or white-and-black or black, structured rubber straps with titanium deployant buckle clasps or white or black ceramic and black-plated titanium deployant buckle clasps. 

The list is certainly not over — let’s check out the next Hublot novelties.

Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski

Since 2017, Richard Orlinski's angular style has also been associated with Hublot, and in the intervening years, the avant-garde Swiss marque has developed a series of uniquely faceted models that are based on his works.

Hublot’s association with French artist Richard Orlinski began in 2017 and there was no looking back. Celebrating their unshakeable bond, Hublot has now launched two new versions — Orlinski titanium (Ref. 549.NI.1270.RX.ORL23) and full titanium (Ref. 549.NI.1270.NI.ORL23) as a 500-piece limited-edition collection. 

The new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski gives the signature multifaceted Orlinski style a more aggressive, function-forward presence, with stark matte blasted finishing and a cleanly minimal dial layout

This non-diamond collection has a 12-sided bezel, made of microblasted and polished titanium, with six visible screws. The black dial gets trapezoidal hour markers with a 30-minute subdial at 9 o’clock and an hours dial at 3 o’ clock. The chronograph gets two pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock to start and restart the function. Both variants also come with date windows at 6 o’clock.

In contrast to the multifaceted complexity of the case, the dial of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is elementally simple

Powering both variants is the Calibre HUB1153 self-winding movement with 42 hours of power reserve. Turning the watches over reveals the skeleton casebacks, each with six visible screws and four screws on the lugs. Each caseback has ‘Limited Edition’, ‘Orlinski’, and the individual watch number engraved on it. The ‘Hublot’ logo is engraved on the titanium oscillating weight. The watches are finished either on black, smooth rubber, stainless steel straps with deployant buckle clasps or on microblasted titanium bracelets with titanium deployant buckle clasps.

Square Bang Unico

After revealing the powerful contours of the Square Big Bang Unico at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022, Hublotis unveiling eight new exclusive variations.

Setting the tone for the collection is the transparent dial, which Hublot likes to flaunt. At the ongoing Watches and Wonders, Hublot has unveiled eight new variations. At the first level, the bezel is set with 44 white diamonds, totalling 1.9 carats: titanium diamonds (Ref. 821.NX.0170.RX.1204) and King Gold diamonds (Ref. 821.OX.0180.RX.1204).

The second level is a more jewelled version wherein the case is also paved with 138 white diamonds, totalling 3.3 carats. You can get titanium pavé (Ref. 821.NX.0170.RX.1604) and King Gold pavé (Ref. 821.OX.0180.RX.1604).

Each of these versions confirms the unique and different character of the Square Bang Unico, the first squarewatch designed by Hublot – which, after the round and the barrel shape, was the only geometric shape thewatchmaker had yet to work with.

The third level moves very clearly towards a piece of jewellery. This composition is, therefore, called ‘Jewellery’: titanium jewellery (Ref. 821.NX.0170.RX.0904) and King Gold jewellery (Ref. 821.OX.0180.RX.0904). The bezel is adorned with 50 baguette diamonds. The case, set with 94 diamonds, brings up the number of diamonds to 144. 

The titanium version retains the monochrome feel, where the brilliant white of the diamonds is reflected in the brushed grey of the titanium.

The fourth level scales newer heights. Here is a piece of ‘high jewellery’, which signals a very clear shift in dimension, compared with the previous versions. In all, 285 diamonds adorn the case, with both the bezel and the dial entirely set in diamonds, achieving a total of almost 18 carats — White Gold high jewellery (Ref. 821.WX.9017.LR.9904) and King Gold high jewellery (821.OX.9018.LR.9904) are indeed showstoppers.

The style is modern and understated, through both the powerful design of the casewith cut-off sides and the delicacy of the diamonds that are set on it.

The dial in this collection gets hour markers in the same material as that of the case, a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and an hour sundial at 3 o’ clock with an inbuilt date window. The chronograph gets two pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock to start and restart the function, and a column wheel at 6 o’clock. Powering these eight watches is the in-house HUB1280 Unico self-winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve.

Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow

The smiling is quite significant to Japanese culture, and in his fourth association with Hublot, Takashi Murakami has introduced thirteen new NFT watches at Watches and Wonders 2023.

The design combines the black ceramic case of the first Murakami watch, Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black, and the colorful rainbow gems of the second Murakami piece, Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

The 45mm, black ceramic watch has 12 petals of the flower form a perfect gradient of rubies, sapphires, amethysts, tsavorites and topaz. The remaining 12 models each represent one of the petals from the master flower. The second step will let collectors have a period of one year during which they can  trade the twelve NFTs on the OpenSea platform. From April 2024, when this period ends, the collector who has managed to collect all 12 of the new unique NFTs will be eligible to purchase the thirteenth and most sought-after watch: the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow.

Similar to the preceding Murakami Hublots, the new piece places the domed center of the smiling flower on top of the sapphire crystal creating a 3-D effect.

Powering the watch is the Unico Manufacture automatic movement with a 72 hour power reserve. The spinning flower moves very elegantly like an automatic rotor and is mounted on ball bearings.

Image Credits: Hublot