Honouring the TUDOR watches of yore that had adorned the wrists of US Navy divers, the latest novelty from the brand, Pelagos FXD, can be regarded as an epitome of the modern "Milsub". Crafted with precision, the watch features fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture calibre, and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel.
The history of TUDOR's dive watches can be traced back to the introduction of Ref. 7922 in 1954, marking the birth of a lineage of exceptional "divers". Over the past seven decades, these timepieces have continuously evolved, earning the respect of elite military navies worldwide. As early as the mid-’50s, TUDOR diving watches underwent rigorous testing by various US Navy units. By 1958, they earned official Navy approval and became the trusted companions of divers across different units. Today, the Pelagos FXD stands as a spiritual successor to these iconic timepieces. Its name, FXD, pays homage to the robust FiXeD strap bars that define its case, symbolising a contemporary, high-performance interpretation of the legendary "Milsub" watches of yesteryear.
Drawing visual inspiration from the late '60s-'80s’ TUDOR divers' watches that were cherished by US Navy personnel, the Pelagos FXD (Ref. 25717N) exudes timeless elegance in black. Adorned with square hour markers and angular "Snowflake" hands introduced in 1969, the TUDOR Pelagos FXD watch guarantees optimal visibility even in low-light conditions. The unidirectional rotating bezel, fitted with a sandblasted ceramic insert that is illuminated with a luminescent material, adds both style and functionality. Crafted from satin-brushed titanium, the 42 mm case ensures water resistance for up to 200 metres, minimising disruptive light reflections.
Within the Pelagos FXD ticks the Manufacture Calibre MT5602. Its rotor is composed of tungsten monobloc, bearing intricate sandblasted details. The bridge and the main plate feature alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, adorned with laser decorations. This robust build is further bolstered by a non-magnetic silicon hairspring. Certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), it surpasses the institute's stringent standards, with a daily running variation of only -2 to +4 seconds. Notably, it boasts a "weekend-proof" power reserve of approximately 70 hours, eliminating the need for frequent winding.
The TUDOR Pelagos FXD watch comes with two one-piece strap options, reminiscent of the US Navy's preferences. The flagship configuration boasts a green fabric strap with a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system. For a subtle twist, an additional black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap is also included.