State-of-the-art engineering is undoubtedly the mainstay of fine watchmaking, wherein the weight of a timepiece matters as much as its precision. Many timepiece makers have realised the importance of using lightweight materials for creating some of the world’s finest watches. Titanium, known for its superior strength and lightness, has proved its mettle by, in some cases, faring better than stainless steel. The metal features prominently in the 10 new variations of Perrelet’s signature ‘Turbine’ collection, launched at Geneva Watch Days 2023 recently. These include Ref. (A4066/1), Ref. (A4066/2), Ref. (A4066/3) and Ref. (A4066/4) that come in Grade 2 titanium cases. Ref. (A4067/1) (yellow), Ref. (A4067/2) (blue), Ref. (A4067/3) (orange), Ref. (A4067/4) (red), Ref. (A4067/5) (green), and Ref. (A4067/6) (black) have titanium cases, fortified with DLC coating.
The collection includes four variants with polished/brushed grade 2 titanium cases; the lower dials are in shades of blue, green, red or black. The other six versions have black DLC titanium cases and rubber straps matching the colour of the subdials: yellow, orange, red, English green, blue, and black. Also, for the first time, the Swiss watch manufacturer has reduced the size of its line that was created in 2009. When the collection was first released, the diameter measured 48 mm, which was consequently reduced to 44 mm for some timepieces. Today, contemporary watchmaking trends favour smaller dimensions, suitable for even the slimmest of wrists. In order to adapt the Turbine to current requirements, the Maison's designers and technicians had to miniaturise the architecture of not only the case, but also of the turbine. The latter rotates freely with the movement of the wrist and is made of 12 black anodised aluminium blades with five counterweights that allow it to slow down and return to its resting position.
Each of the colourful models features a smooth bezel, a vertically fluted case middle, triple lugs, and a prominent crown, decorated with the brand's logo. All models get hour, minute hands, filled with a white luminescent material, and are enhanced by a black profile and a horizontal segment. Each dial contains a black chapter on its outer periphery and a 60-minute track with white numeral, below which lies a combination of Arabic (for even) and trapezoidal (for odd) hour markers, filled with white Super-LumiNova. The central second hand gets colour contrast for the DLC-coated variant, which means that the colour of the turbine matches the second hand. In the grade 2 titanium models, the second hand is in red, irrespective of the colour of the turbine.
The watches are run by the in-house self-winding P-331-MH calibre that delivers a power reserve of 42 hours and is guaranteed by two certifications, issued by two independent institutes, the COSC and the Chronofiable®. The bridges of the movement are rhodium-plated and circular with graining decoration. Turning each watch over showcases the openworked oscillating weight in titanium and the Perrelet logo. Each watch is finished on a five-row titanium bracelet with a folding buckle or on a rubber strap matching the colour of the lower dial with a black, DLC-coated titanium pin buckle.