Montres Tudor remains a sister company to Rolex; both being owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. Tudor — which has been supplying the US Navy with diver’s watches since the 1950s — launched the first Black Bay model in 1969: the Black Bay P01, where ‘P’ stood for prototype. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Tudor has released four new Black Bays in different sizes and colours along with a new Tudor Royal.
First launched in 2012, the burgundy bezel watch is a true diver’s watch. The new timepiece (Ref. 7941A1A0RU) sits on a 41mm stainless steel case with a 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium inserts. The domed satin radial-brushed black dialled watch with gilt accents gets dotted, bar-shaped, and triangular hour markers with a ‘Snowflake’ shaped three-hand layout — hour, minute and seconds hand.
Powering the watch is Tudor’s in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, a self-winding mechanical movement offering a power reserve of 70 hours. Turning this time-only watch showcases the bidirectional oscillating weight.
The watch comes with a choice of three-link “rivet-style” or five-oval-shaped-link bracelet, or an additional rubber strap, all with a “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp for a comfortable fit around the wearer’s wrist.
BLACK BAY 31/36/39/41
The timepieces (Ref. 79600, 79640, 79660, 79680) come with 31mm, 36mm, 39mm or 41mm stainless steel cases with fixed stainless steel bezels. This time-only collection offers three dial colours — blue, anthracite or light champagne. The dial gets dotted, bar shaped, and triangular hour markers with a three-hand layout — hour, minute and seconds hand.
Powering the watches is the Manufacture Calibres MT5201 (31mm), MT5400 (36mm), MT5602 (39mm), MT5601 (41mm) with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours for MT5201, 70 hours for MT5400, MT5601, and MT5602.
BLACK BAY 54
In 1954, the Ref. 7922 was released, the first ever diving watch. At the ongoing Watches and Wonders, Tudor has released (Ref. 79000N), another time-only watch with a 37mm stainless steel case and a 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium insert.
The watch comes with a black dial similar to the 7922, with a signature hour marker, and a three-hand set up. The watch is run by the in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5400 with a 70-hour power reserve. Turning the watch showcases the bidirectional oscillating weight.
Finishing the watch is the three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, both with the “T-fit” clasp.
BLACK BAY GMT
Recognised as a traveller’s watch, the new GMT (Ref. 79830RB) gets a 48-notch, 24-hour bidirectional bezel in blue and red that depicts day and night with anodised aluminium insert in burgundy and deep blue. The domed opaline dial with a galvanic finish gets a grey seconds hand and a white GMT hand that marks the second time zone. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
Powering the watch is the in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with a 70-hour power reserve. The self-winding mechanical movement comes with a bidirectional oscillating weight.
The watch comes with a three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, black fabric strap with burgundy accents.
The new Royal — available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm — comes housed in stainless steel or stainless steel and yellow gold cases. The dial options range from black, silver and salmon to chocolate-brown, champagne and blue, with or without diamonds. The dial gets applied Roman numerals, a date window at 3 o’clock, and for just the 41mm piece: a day of the week window at 12 o’clock. The baton-shaped hands come with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
The watches are powered by an in-house self-winding Calibre T603 (41mm) or T601 (38 and 34mm) or T201 (28mm). Finishing the watches is the integrated bracelet in stainless steel or stainless steel and yellow gold with five rows, satin-brushed external and central links, polished intermediate links, with folding clasp and safety catch.