We often describe ourselves as a 200-year-old startup: Nicholas Hofmann of H. Moser & Cie.

Founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser, H. Moser & Cie. has emerged as a distinctive voice in independent watchmaking, defining luxury through restraint with minimalist, logo-free Concept pieces, fluid cases and signature fumé dials. As the Maison expands its presence in India, its unique synthesis of high horology and irreverent creativity offers a compelling proposition for a new generation of collectors. In a conversation with Nicholas Hofmann, Director of International Sales, we explore how the brand is approaching the Indian market, evolving client preferences and why stripping down the dial often speaks the loudest.

This interview is edited and condensed

GMT India: The Streamliner Pump collection stood out at Watches and Wonders this year. What inspired the orange pusher on the watch?

Nicholas Hofmann (NH): The orange pusher is much more than a design detail. It references the iconic Reebok Pump sneakers from the 1990s, which featured a pump mechanism that inflated air capsules inside the shoe for a tighter fit. When we conceptualised the collaboration, we didn’t want it to be just another logo-on-the-dial project. We wanted to integrate the Pump concept into the watch itself. The orange pusher, complete with the Pump logo, is used to wind the watch, making it a genuine expression of both brands. 

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‍GMT India: What do collectors gain from an independent brand like H. Moser & Cie. that larger watchmakers may not offer?

NH: Independence gives us the freedom to take risks. We can be less conventional, more creative and occasionally polarising. That's something larger organisations often find harder to do. At Moser, we don't want people to merely like our watches — we want them to love our watches. Beyond the products, independence also shapes our culture. We strive to remain human in our interactions, whether with collectors, retailers, journalists or partners. We see watchmaking as a community built around a shared passion rather than simply a business transaction.

‍GMT India: How does that independent spirit influence innovation at Moser?

NH: Here, innovation starts with surprise. We enjoy challenging expectations, whether through a collaboration like the Reebok Pump or through technical developments. Rather than adapting existing solutions, we’re willing to invest the time and resources needed to develop entirely new movements and concepts. That process comes with risks, but it’s central to who we are. We want every new project to bring something unexpected to the conversation.

‍GMT India: What are some of the biggest shifts you’re seeing among today’s collectors?

NH: Collectors are becoming increasingly knowledgeable. Access to information has transformed the market and people are now looking beyond aesthetics. They want authenticity, substance and transparency. They want to understand how a watch is made and what stands behind it. We’re also seeing growing interest in smaller case sizes, influenced by vintage watches, as well as increased participation from women collectors. These trends have influenced our own product development, including the introduction of new 20mm and 34mm Streamliner models.

‍GMT India: How does the brand communicate with collectors seeking deeper stories and authenticity?

NH: It starts with our credibility as a fully integrated manufacture. Because we have serious watchmaking expertise and produce our own movements, we have the freedom to be playful in our communication. Our clients appreciate that balance. They want the substance of true manufacturing expertise, but they also enjoy products that don’t take themselves too seriously. We combine serious watchmaking with creative, entertaining communication.

‍GMT India: How has the brand’s journey in India evolved?

NH: We’ve been working with Ethos for almost seven years now, and India continues to be an exciting market for us. Today, we have six points of sale and a dedicated boutique in Delhi, which is a significant achievement. While the overall watch market is still relatively small compared to the size of the population, the growth potential is enormous. Education around watchmaking is increasing, collectors are becoming more sophisticated, and developments such as trade agreements between Switzerland and India are encouraging for the future. We’re here for the long term.

‍GMT India: If you had to pick three personal favourites from the current collection, which would they be?

NH: First would be the Cylindrical Tourbillon Minute Repeater, which we launched this year. It's an extraordinary piece. Second would be the Reebok Pump collaboration because I grew up with those sneakers and seeing that project come to life was incredibly rewarding. Third would be the green Streamliner Small Seconds boutique edition. It's exclusive to our boutiques and highlights the importance of these spaces in offering collectors something truly special.

‍GMT India: H. Moser & Cie. will celebrate its 200th anniversary in 2028. How do you balance heritage with modernity?

NH: We often describe ourselves as a "200-year-old startup". While we respect our heritage, we're focused on creating the future rather than dwelling on the past. Traditional craftsmanship remains at the heart of what we do, but we constantly reinterpret it through contemporary techniques, materials and ideas. History is important, but our goal is to make history now. That's what will define our bicentennial celebrations in 2028.