The 2023 edition of the prestigious award ceremony will see 90 timepieces nominated across 15 categories including “Petite Aiguille”: a category that requires the watches to be within a retail price of CHF 2,000 and CHF 8,000; smartwatches too are admissible. GMT India takes a closer look at the “Petite Aiguille” nominees for this year’s GPHG awards.
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic
Bulgari showcased the new Octo Roma collection earlier this year at Watches and Wonders. This 41 mm stainless steel watch (Ref. 103740) flaunts an anthracite dial with Clous de Paris pattern, and three hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The baton and the Arabic hour markers at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock have Super-LumiNova ® coating, ensuring greater readability. The caseback incorporates a stainless steel oscillating weight.
The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre BVL 191 that offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The new Octo Roma gives the wearer an interchangeable wristband (available options are leather, rubber, steel), thus elevating the timepiece’s versatility.
Christopher Ward London C1 Bel Canto
A watch that has grabbed the attention of collectors and enthusiasts, this (Ref. C01-41APT1-T00B0-VB) is a limited edition of 300 (it was sold out in a matter of hours), and is ensconced in a 41 mm titanium case. The time-viewing sub-dial — placed at 12 o’clock on the Azzuro Blue sunray-brushed dial — instantly stands out.
Using the pusher at 4 o’clock allows the wearer to switch off the chime that is displayed on the red indicator on the dial. The timepiece is powered by Sellita SW200-1 base movement which provides the 38-hour power reserve. The blue leather strap with a pin buckle is a stunning aesthetic complement to the Azzuro Blue of the dial.
Habring2 Chrono-Felix Top-Second
The next watch in this category is the new Chrono-Felix Top-Second model by independent watchmaker Habring2. This monopusher chronograph is contained within a 38.5 mm stainless steel case, and sports a knurled double-sealed crown and a monopusher for the chronograph at 3 o’clock.
The black lacquered dial with a metal finish has a little red window at 9 o’clock that reveals the Chrono-Felix Top-Second’s touch of magic. It flashes a signal every 2.5 seconds. Here’s how the mechanism works: within the movement (calibre A11FC with a 48-hour power reserve) is a small, spinning propeller with two blades. This entire propellor rotates every 5 seconds; however, because of the two blades, the seconds signal flashes every 2.5 seconds. The textile strap with a pin buckle is NATO-styled.
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Le Régulateur
This 42 mm timepiece (Ref. 85237AA88) is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, and is a limited edition of 178. Crafted from stainless steel, the watch is based on the architecture of Louis Erard's signature regulator; it has a huge central minute hand, a sub-dial at noon that indicates hours, and a small seconds display at 6 o'clock.
Powering the watch is the automatic Calibre Sellita SW266-1 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. The black toad strap has rabbit leather lining that matches the dial colour, offering an easy harmony with the unique aesthetics of the dial.
Magraph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès
This timepiece (Ref. ML-RP-M660) marks Massena Lab’s first collaboration with Raúl Pagès, and the first ever with another brand. Limited to only 99 pieces, the watch is sized at 38.5 mm with a stainless steel case. The minimalistic off-white dial of the Magraph — inspired by Bauhaus art and design of the 1930s — features ‘Massena’ written in an vintage-inspired script at 12 o’clock and is intersected with a radially grooved small-seconds subsidiary dial at 6 o'clock.
The Magraph is powered by a Massena LAB proprietary movement: the manual-winding M660 that offers a power reserve of 60 hours. It’s paired with a leather sturgeon skin strap with rubber lining in a deep indigo colour with reflective turquoise accents.
TUDOR Black Bay
The newest Black Bay (Master Chronometer-certified by METAS) with its 41 mm stainless steel case and striking burgundy bezel makes for a worthy nominee. The watch (Ref. 7941A1A0RU) gets a polished bevel on the sides, a new crown at 3 o’clock, and the upgraded bezel with a fluting texture with a 60-minute diving scale.
Powering the watch is the self-winding mechanical Calibre MT5602-U with a 70-hour power reserve. It comes fitted with either a satin-brushed three-link steel bracelet or a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished steel bracelet, both complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp.