Round-Up: The Most Remarkable Timepieces Showcased at Geneva Watch Days 2023

The curtain has come down on Geneva Watch Days 2023, which started on August 29. As expected, the event brought celebrated brands and watch aficionados together, showcasing the finest examples of contemporary watchmaking. The industry exhibition was founded in September 2020 by eight prestigious watch brands, namely Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk. 

Here are the timepieces, unveiled on the Lake Shore, that caught GMT India’s attention this year. 

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Ressence Type 3 EE

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This 44 mm titanium watch gets a multi-rotating titanium disc display with hours on an inner dial, minutes pointing on an outside track, and the day of the month, the day of the week, and pastel-toned oil temperature indications. There's also green Super-LumiNova on the dial to make it legible at night. Weekend days and oil temperature indications on the convex Grade 5 titanium dial are in new pastel tones as well. 

Powered by the self-winding Patented ROCS 3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System, driven by a customised 2824/2 calibre, the watch has a 36-hour power reserve. It sits on a grey honeycomb strap with a titanium ardillon buckle.

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MB&F HM9

MB&F released two new 57 mm HM9 Sapphire Vision timepieces; one has a PVD-coated blue engine with an 18 ct white gold frame, worn on a brown strap, and the other a PVD-coated green engine, with an 18 ct yellow gold frame, worn on a black strap. Each "case" comprises an outer hull in three parts, sapphire crystal and precious metal, curved, and bubbled.

The conical gears relay that energy and speed at a 90° angle to move the time display on a sapphire crystal dial, marked with Super-LumiNova. On the reverse, co-axial beneath each of the balances, are the propellers: twin turbines that spin freely as a striking element of pure visual interest.

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Oris AquisPro 4000m

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At 49.5 mm, Oris AquisPro is a bold watch with a titanium case that can withstand pressure up to 4,000 metres. And it's on a serious mission. The watch features an ultra-thick crystal on top and a helium escape valve at 8:30, whose purpose is to allow the trapped helium molecules to safely vacate the watch when internal pressure reaches a point that can damage the watch.

Powered by Oris Calibre 400, a high-performance automatic mechanical movement, the watch comes with a five-day power reserve. To complete the look, Oris has added a blue rubber strap with a titanium security folding clasp with extension.

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Bvlgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar

The Octo Finissimo collection has achieved a cult status in horology. At the recently concluded Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari unleashed two new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar watches. After enjoying success in titanium, platinum, rose and yellow gold, ceramic, and tantalum, the Octo Finissimo saga continues in light-weight anthracite carbon composite and pink gold. 

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Powering the watches is the calibre BVL 138, sharing the same regulating organ, the gear train, the barrel with a 60-hour power reserve and the automatic winding mechanism. Both watches are presented on carbon bracelets that are secured by folding buckles.

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Louis Erard La Petite Seconde Metropolis

The collection, comprising the three new Art Deco-inspired timepieces, is infused with a New York vibe. The models are crafted from stainless steel, sit on 39 mm cases, and are limited to 59 pieces each (177 plus 1 for The Horophile). There are three dial colours – slate-grey, salmon, and tobacco.

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This disc is extended in two dimensions, highlighting the two time display areas: the main hour-minute dial and the secondary seconds subdial. The watches are powered by Sellita SW261-1 calibre with 38 hours of power reserve. The three Petite Seconde Empire models are paired with grained calfskin straps that can be easily swapped with the assistance of a functional catch-spring bars.

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Urwerk UR-100V Stardust

The new timepiece is equipped with the signature orbital satellite display; it also features unusual astronomical indications, displaying the distance travelled on Earth (rotations) and the distance travelled by Earth (revolutions) around the Sun in kilometres. The watch is snow-set with 400 diamonds; of these, 24 diamonds adorn the watch crown at 12 o’clock that controls the whole movement.

Powering this watch is the self-winding UR 12.02 movement, offering 48 hours of power reserve. The Urwerk UR-100V Stardust also gets a Baltimore blue fabric strap, coupled with a short blasted pin buckle in steel, enhanced by two rows, comprising 11 diamonds each.

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Armin Strom One Week First Edition

The Armin Strom One Week First Edition made its debut within a contemporary stainless steel casing, 41 mm in diameter. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal on top of  the dial can also be found on the caseback. The timepiece boasts faceted hour and minute hands, adorned with Super-LumiNova, very carefully centred on the open expanse of the dial.

Powering the watch is the in-house manual winding Calibre ARM21 with seven days of power reserve, courtesy of a double barrel system. Finishing the watch is an H-shaped stainless steel bracelet with a double folding clasp. The watch also comes with a 10-year warranty.

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De Bethune DB28XP ‘Kind of Blue’

The newly launched 43 mm timepiece is crafted from polished grade 5 titanium; it has a “microlight” case middle. Signature features of the original version, like the floating lugs, the delta-shaped bridge, and the crown at 12 o’clock, have all been maintained. Time is indicated by the polished rose gold hands. 

Powering the watch is the calibre DB2115v12, featuring a titanium balance with white gold inserts and a silicon escape wheel with a six-day power reserve, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel. The timepiece is finished on an extra-supple alligator leather strap with alligator lining, along with a blued grade 5 polished titanium buckle and pin.

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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack® and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack®

H. Moser & Cie. unveiled two new watches, namely Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack® and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack® in red gold cases. Composed through carbon nanotechnology, Vantablack, acronym for Vertically Aligned Nanotube Arrays, is the darkest substance available on our planet; it is capable of absorbing 99.96% light. 

The models come with different movements but share a power reserve of 72 hours. For the first time, these Endeavour models combine Vantablack dials with 18 ct red gold cases.

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Louis Moinet Jules Verne Tourbillon

The Jules Verne Tourbillon from Louis Moinet comes in a 40 mm 18 ct rose gold case with a unique stone disc, carved from either a lunar meteorite, an opal or a lapis lazuli. The central disc features a peripheral guilloché, which involves producing motifs by engraving gentle grooves on a metallic surface.

Powering the watch is a hand-wound with double barrel movement, delivering 96 hours of power reserve. The watch is finished on a black strap.